Monday, October 25, 2010

Kreplach

Tender egg-pasta enclose savory ground meat simply and peasantly spiced with onion, garlic and parsley. Boiled, they are served in a butter sauce, heavily salted and peppered, with a side of boiled cabbage.


It has been a matter of speculation most of my life about any "jewish heritage" on my mother's side of the family. Growing up, I was often asked if I were Jewish as was my younger sister. I think it's my swarthy complexion and sexy lips! Or so I was told.

There are family stories of my great, great grandfather talking with "brethern" on synogogue steps in Chicago. And, somewhere along the way,  there is someone's birth certificate with the surname of "Jacobs."

Be that as it may, and even though we were raised devout Catholics, it just may be my family's culinary heritage that provides the most telling evidence. We grew up on kreplach and latkes; but, we called them "dumplings" and "potato pancakes." Those two words alone are enough to send any family member into a salivating swoon, regardless of religious affiliation. Or pouty lips.

Kreplach can be folded in many ways.
This is my preferred way. Hold the dumpling
in your left hand. Pinch and fold the ends all the way around.


Kreplach is labor intensive. I won't lie about that. But if you have an extra pair of hands or two, the work goes quickly. And they freeze beautifully, so always make extra.

A food processor makes easy work of preparing the dough. My grandmother used to heap the flour on the counter and make a well in the center for the eggs and water. It was always quite a mess, and clean up was horrible, which included each and every finger! With the processor, you actually get a better dough, I think. And you can easily prepare the meat the night before, which I often do to give it better flavor.

A food processor or mini-prep simplifies dough-making.
Basic Kreplach Dough Recipe
  • Basic Dough/Noodle Recipe:
  • 1 cup flour
  • 2 egg yolks (My Grandma used one whole egg.)
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1 teaspoon olive oil*
  • 1/4 cup tepid water + a bit more if needed
Egg yolks make for a richer dough!

Place flour and salt in processor. Pulse. Add egg yolks and pulse until fine. Add olive oil and pulse. With motor running and lid on, dribble the tepid water through the holes in the lid of the processor. When dough leaves the sides of the processor, it is done. You may need to add a tablespoon or more of water, but always add just a dribble at a time.

Remove to a lightly-floured surface and knead just a few times. If the dough seems a bit wet, knead in a bit more flour. (It's better to have the dough too wet than too dry.)


This dough is a bit too dry and needs just a dribble or two more of water.
This dough is a tad too wet, but okay.
It just needs to be kneaded on a floured surface a few times and it will be fine.



Cover dough with a piece of plastic wrap, towel, or bowl and let rest for 30 minutes. Do not attempt to roll out the dough until it has rested. Do not use paper towel, waxed paper or tinfoil to cover dough as they will end up sticking to the dough.

After 30 minutes, the dough will be soft and pliable. Flour a surface and begin rolling out the dough into a circle. I go thin. Think noodle. Using a 3-inch cutter, begin cutting out circles. Save the scraps of dough and re-roll. You should end up with about 20 circles.

I used an English antique biscuit cutter.
My grandmother used a glass dipped in flour.
 (I was bad and used 3 egg yolks in this dough--you can see the tinge of yellow.)


Meat Filling:
  • 8 ounces (1/2 lb.) finely ground chuck
  • 1/4 cup fresh, finely-cut curly parsley
  • 2-4 tablespoons finely diced yellow onion
  • 1-2 small garlic cloves, finely diced--smashed to a paste is even better
  • salt and pepper to taste
Mix all ingredients together. It's important to have a fine dice on the onion since the meatballs are rather small. I often cheat and just add dried onion flakes, garlic powder and dried parsley flakes. Form into small "meatballs." You are looking for about 20.

While I'm waiting for the dough to rest, I make the meatballs.

Stuffing can be ground beef, chicken, turkey, even salmon.
As you can see, the meatballs are not large
and should fit inside a tablespoon.



TO ASSEMBLE:

Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil as you fill dumplings.

Place one meatball off center in one of your cut circles of dough being careful to place it on the opposite side that has been floured. Fold over and seal edges. Place on a floured surface until done. Leftover meat can simply be added to the pot of boiling water along with scraps of leftover dough.

I prefer a ruffled or roped edge.


Carefully place the kreplach in the boiling water being careful not to overcrowd too much. Stir once so none stick to bottom of pan. Place on lid and return to the boil, keeping an eye on the pot so it doesn't boil over. Boil for about ten minutes. You know they will be done when the center puffs up from steam ( a reason to keep the lid on, not off).

Using a slotted spoon, remove to a large bowl. Ladle in a bit of the water and several tablespoons of butter. Add salt and pepper. Cover with a plate and allow to sit for about five minutes or so.

Traditionally, my family always served this with a side of boiled cabbage. Remember, pasta can take a lot of salt. I like to serve with a side of sour cream.

For added flavor, add a bit of onion to your cabbage when you boil it.
NOTES
*My grandmother never used olive oil in her dough, but it makes for a much more tender dough. When I told her I added it, she grabbed me by the arm and exclaimed, "You improved it!"
TO FREEZE: place uncooked dumplings on a baking sheet and place in freezer. When frozen, put into plastic bags. To cook, simply put frozen into boiling water and cook per above instructions, adding about 5 minutes or so.
TO ADD TO SOUP: These are wonderful added to chicken or turkey soup. I never cook them in the soup, though, since the raw dough and flour compromises the taste of the stock. Cook separately in a pot of water and then add to soup.

If you are making several batches of kreplach, a latex glove helps. Mound the meat in the palm of your hand and gently squeeze out each meatball. It makes fast work of it.

I always intend to fry leftover kreplach, but there never are any. I would like to sautee them in a sage/butter sauce.

Kreplach is peasant food at its finest. And, it's economical.


Hi, Grandma! Look at that pose . . .



Saturday, October 23, 2010

Apple-Ginger Chutney


I've never understood why chutneys are not as popular here in the States as they are abroad. Yes, they involve a lot chopping, but sometimes after a grueling day, chopping just feels GOOD!!! So therapeautic! I usually do the following as a half batch. It is great served as an appetizer, such as soft brie on a simple cracker and topped with this! It's also great alongside pork and ham. And chicken ...... Put up in small jars, it makes for great holiday gifts.

  • 4 large Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and chopped
  • 2 cups minced onion
  • 1 1/2 cups cider vinegar (or rice wine vinegar)
  • 1 1/2 cups firmly-packed dark brown sugar
  • 1 cup golden raisins
  • 1/4 cup peeled and minced fresh ginger
  • 1 red bell pepper, minced
  • 3/4 teaspoon dry mustard
  • 3/4 teaspoon salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon dried hot red pepper flakes (or to taste)

In a large saucepan, combine all ingredients and bring to a boil. Lower heat to moderate and  stir occasionally for abut 40 minutes, or until it is thickened. Spoon into glass jars with tight-fitting lids. It  keeps chilled, for two weeks (I've kept it a lot longer).
(makes about six cups)


Saturday, October 16, 2010

Veal Stew

I love this recipe. It's quite easy to prepare but don't be fooled by its simpleness and don't omit the white wine. Veal can sometimes be difficult to find at supermarkets. If it doesn't sell quickly, it's cut into stew meat at marked-down prices. That's when I snatch it! Veal often uses lemon and capers. This recipe does not.

  • 4 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 onion, chopped
  • 2 cloves garlic, minced
  • 2 pounds veal, trimmed and cubed
  • 1, 8 ounce can tomato sauce
  • 1/2 cup white wine
  • Salt and pepper to taste

In a large pot, heat oil over medium heat. Andd onions and cook until onion is tender. Add minced garlic and stir just until fragrant.

Add meat to the pot and brown evenly.

Stir in tomato sauce and white wine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low. Cover and simmer for 1 1/2 hours, or until meat is tender. Serve with plain white rice.

This recipe is easily halved.

Serves 6

Monday, October 4, 2010

Fast Tomato Sauce

I have difficulty eating most tomato sauces because of the acidity. And that usually is the result of canned tomatoes. I’ve made the following recipe several times and find it quite palatable. I think it’s even better the next day and great spooned over a simple grilled chicken breast. I have settled on the following canned tomatoes after sampling many: Muir Glen Diced/Crushed Organic Fire Roasted.

  • 28 oz. canned crushed tomatoes (see note above)
  • 1 tablespoon each olive oil, butter
  • 1/4 cup grated yellow onion
  • 1/2 teaspoon crushed, dried oregano
  • 1 tablespoon minced garlic
  • 1-2 tablespoons light brown sugar
  • 1/4 heaping teaspoon baking soda
  • 2 tablespoons freshly-chopped basil
  • 1 tablespoon butter
  • Salt and Pepper to taste

Heat the oil and butter in a heavy medium saucepan or Dutch oven. Add the grated onion and cook until it begins to brown, stirring occasionally. Add the garlic and dried oregano. Stir just until warmed through, less than a minute. Stir in the tomatoes being sure to scrap up the brown bits from the pan. Add the brown sugar and stir. Raise the heat and bring to simmer. Lower heat and simmer gently for 15-20 minutes until thickened a bit. Remove the pot from the heat. Sprinkle the sauce with the baking soda and gently stir. It will foam a bit as it reacts to neutralize the acid. Add a bit of pepper. Stir. Just before serving, add the butter and the chopped basil.

NOTE: I've also added a bit of red pepper flakes to the onion.