Monday, October 24, 2011

Creamed Onions with Thyme and Gruyere Cheese (Onion Gratin)


Humble, simple ingredients. Elegant fare. Cooking at its finest.


This is really an "onion gratin." But who goes around saying "gratin?" I have no idea where I got this recipe. But since I took the time to type it up it means two things: a) I made changes and b) it was good. I know it was good because I included the following comment, "This was so good I licked the plate." I haven't made it in years. I'm glad I re-discovered it!

This is a beautiful side for any beef dish, especially beef tenderloin.

I love a dish like this that uses the simplest of ingredients and ends up both elegant and delicious. The first time I served it was at Christmas with my family. The star of the meal was beef tenderloin. I wanted something a bit different, but not too heavy, so I brought this along with my recipe for simple, baked carrots. (http://www.kitchenbounty.com/2009/04/baked-carrots.html)

I watched my niece's husband fork his way back-and-forth between carrots and onions. Finally, after a swallow, he accusingly smiled, "You've been holding out on us!" LOL.

I use regular yellow onions. Look for onions that are firm with tight skins and no blemishes. To avoid tears, use a very sharp knife and never cut an onion with a serrated knife. Onions that have been refrigerated produce the least amount of tears. Sweating the onions is the only time-consuming part of the whole deal. 



A word about black pepper. Compared to twenty years ago, we now have access to a wide variety of pepper, many we can grind ourselves. But for a recipe like this, I use regular table pepper. My favorite brand is McCormick. It's finely ground and I know I can depend on its consistent taste.

Serves 4-6 (or two piggies)

  • 2  - 2.5 lbs. yellow-skinned onions
  • 2 tablespoons butter
  • 1 small clove garlic
  • 1/2 teaspoon (scant) dry thyme leaves, lightly crushed
  • 1/4 teaspoon black pepper
  • 1/2 teaspoon Kosher salt
  • 1/2 cup heavy cream
  • 1/4 cup beef stock
  • 1 tablespoon flour
  • 1-2 tablespoons dry white wine
  • 1/2- 3/4 cup Gruyere cheese, grated


Preheat oven to 350 F. degrees. Butter or spray a shallow baking dish about 10 x 7 or 10 x 6. Set aside.

To cut the onions: Cut off stem and blossom ends from onion. Peel outer skins and discard or freeze for soup base. Slice onion in half. Place cut side down and slice into 1/2 inch-slices.



Peel and cut the garlic clove into very thin slices. Then slice into strips and mince. Set aside

Grate cheese using large holes a box grater. Set aside

Measure the cream, beef stock, thyme, pepper and salt into a micro-wave safe bowl or measuring cup. Add just a pinch or two of the minced garlic. Microwave for about 1 minute or just until warm. Taste for salt. Whisk in the tablespoon of flour. Set aside.

Melt two tablespoons of butter in a 12-inch skillet. Add onions and cook over medium heat until they begin to brown. This will take a good 20-30 minutes or so. It's important to "sweat" them using a low heat. Don't hurry the process. Why are you doing this? You want to release the water from the onion which will intensify its taste. You can raise the heat a bit toward the end. You don't want to caramelize the onions, just sweat and brown them. Just before they're done, add a few pinches of the garlic (I never use the full one clove of garlic). Stir in for about one minute or so paying close attention that the garlic bits don't burn. You don't want the garlic to overpower the onions in this dish.

All wormy and yummy!

Remove onions from heat and layer into baking dish. Return pan to heat and add one tablespoon or so of dry, white wine to de-glaze the pan by scraping up the brown bits on bottom of pan. Drizzle over onions. Drizzle cream mixture over onions while stirring it at the same time to keep the flour incorporated and evenly distributed. Cream mixture will not cover the onions. Top with cheese.




Bake for about 25-30 minutes until it is a bubbling and onions and cheese have browned a bit. It will not have a "crust." Remove from oven and allow to rest at least 20-30 minutes to allow juices to thicken. Garnish with fresh thyme sprigs. 

It's important to let this rest a bit so the juices have a chance to thicken up.


Notes: My baking dish was a bit deeper than I would have liked. I suppose one could use a good Swiss cheese, such as Jarlsburg, which is less expensive than Gruyere. In my "notes" I have half '1/4 cup grated Gruyere and 1/4 cup grated fresh Parmesan.' I went with all Gruyere. The last five minutes or so, I raised the oven temperature a bit. When I removed it, it was a bubbly mass.



Friday, October 21, 2011

More Tales from the Grocery Store: The Produce Department


Who wouldn't want to work in this space?

I've always had my eye on working in the produce department. So when the produce manager went on vacation and the store manager asked if I'd help out while he was gone, I was more than eager to oblige.

Many employees loathe produce. They find it particualry boring with a captial B. Not me.

As an avid gardener, I felt right at home instantly. Everyday was a harvest without any work of tilling, weeding or fertilizing. Truckloads of boxes from all over the world. What could be more exciting? I even had a hose with a nozzle for watering down the plants to keep them fresh, green and crisp.

As an artist, produce creates the best palette. It's all about color and shape and design. When I was a teacher, I often had students bring in a fruit or vegetable and we spent the entire period studying that single object. Just as no person has a "single personality," no fruit or vegetable has a single color. An apple is not merely red or green. It is composed of different shades and hues, especially when sliced in two. Even in a display of dozens, each is a unique face.

And, of course, from a mere Freudian point of view, produce is just sexy. Everything in the department can be reduced to the shape of a penis or a breast. Really. It is the only department where the merchandise is "fondled." Now you know why. Most fruits are breasts. Most vegetables a penis. But there are always exceptions, such as the banana.

The banana is the single most purchased item in any grocery store. The banana cart is filled several times a day. And I did get the obligatory comment about finding large poisonous spiders in the boxes. But I was ready with a response: "Nope. No spiders. But sometimes we find alien midgets trying to smuggle their way illegally into the country."

Banana boxes are the most sought-after boxes in a grocery store. We are forever saving them for customers. They are great for moving because they have a slide-on top, side 
handles and are sturdy. Apple boxes are also great, but most people don't know about them.

The produce department is pretty much the Zen Center of a grocery store. It appeals to the contemplative nature of a person's personality. There'a reason most entrances to a grocery store begin with produce. People have to slow down. One can't just zip through the produce aisles grabbing items from shelves to throw into a cart. One has to pause and observe. Check things out. Compare. It's quiet shopping. Almost like being in your own backyard. Items are slipped into their own bags and lovingly placed into a safe part of the cart to avoid the violence of canned-good grenades and crushing bruises from 50-lb. bags of animal feed. In produce, all items are revered and pampered. Like babies. In many ways, the produce department resembles a hospital nursery, all the newborns tucked away in cribs.

Customers in the produce department are usually subdued and hushed. Low-key. Even when they talk, their tone is usually softer. It's sacred territory, like a church. A spiritual space. Each display is an altar and it even has flowers! It's not uncommon to hear people hum or whistle amongst bins of grapes and peaches as they find their inner OM and re-center their unbalanced lives after a hectic day. They leave happy and blessed.

Whatever you buy in the produce department will make you healthy. It's great for one's ego. And body. What's not to like? You enter it feeling good about yourself and you leave feeling even better. That won't happen in the frozen food aisles of ice cream and frozen pizza. There is no cholesterol in the produce dept.

Our produce department isn't the largest. But everything is wonderfully organized, clean and fresh. Our department outsells all the others in our district. All of our leafy vegetables are pre-washed and picked over. The celery is washed, scrubbed and trimmed. All are baptized. And in the case of onions, circumcised. I hate loose onion skins, so I remove all the papery outer shells before displaying any of them. 


What customers never see is the back-room cooler. When you open its heavy, insulated steel door, you're immediately welcomed by a rush of spring air that is at once cool and green and alive. A modern-day root cellar, for sure. The temperature is automatically controlled so that it is never summer or winter. It is always inviting. Produce is safely packaged and washed and sometimes encased in ice to keep it fresh as possible for as long as possible. All that's missing is a rainbow.

I was fortunate and didn't have to work the morning shifts. As I've said before, there is no easy job in a grocery store. Produce involves a lot of lifting and stacking, most of which occurs early in the day when trucks arrive with their deliveries. A box of apples isn't light fare, nor a box of bananas.

After two days, I was on my own and had the entire department to myself. I felt like a monk in a cloistered garden. A holy space.

On Monday, I was awarded "Associate of the Quarter." I was thrilled all my hard work was recognized and I love the people I work with. My brief stint in the produce department was mentioned. I hope they ask me back.




Wednesday, October 19, 2011

Lazy Baked Shrimp

Succulent shrimp seasoned with a rosemary/thyme infusion of olive oil. And it's easy!


You know the feeling. You want something good for dinner. But you don't want a lot of prep. And you especially don't want a mess to clean up. That's how I felt when I made this dish. I was going to have it with a side of rice, but even that was too complicated for the mood I was in. I boiled some garlic/parsley dried pasta, instead. Perfect. 

This recipe gave me a reason to begin using my fresh herbs before they're hit by frost. And I was (finally) able to use my old Fire King, 10" x 6" ecru dish I bought at a flea market. It was the perfect size. I purchased two pounds of frozen shrimp on sale for five dollars!!! They were smaller than I would have liked, but they worked out just fine. The herbs were free! So, all-in-all, this was pretty inexpensive but elegant fare. Serve with a cold, white wine, and a bit of bread to sop up the extra oil.

This makes for a great appetizer. Place several on a plate with crusty piece of bread and lemon wedge.
  • 3/4 lb. fresh shrimp, peeled and deveined
  • 3 fresh rosemary sprigs
  • 2-3 sprigs fresh thyme
  • 3 tablespoons olive oil
  • Fresh-ground black pepper
  • Red pepper flakes--just a pinch (optional)
  • Kosher salt
  • Fresh lemon

Place all ingredients but the shrimp, salt and lemon in a baking dish. Turn to coat the rosemary. Roast for about 10 minutes in a 400 F. degree oven. About halfway, turn the herbs.

My rosemary sprigs were the last of the season and pretty sparse.
 I should have added a bit more.

Remove dish from oven. The oil will have absorbed the essence of the herbs. Add shrimp in an even layer.




Return dish to oven and bake for about 10 minutes or so, depending on size of shrimp, turning once halfway through the cooking process. (Once shrimp begin to turn pink and coral, they're pretty much done, so don't overcook.)

Remove from oven. Sprinkle with salt and squeeze some lemon juice over it. Give it a stir.



Serve with a side of pasta/Parmesan, being sure to drizzle the flavorful oil over all.


Beautiful!


Notes: Next time I'll use a bit more olive oil because I really loved the taste of the herb-infused oil. I wasn't crazy about the little pieces of rosemary left behind, but that's just part of the recipe and my own peccadillo. I was really, really, really tempted to add garlic to this dish. But I'm glad I didn't. It may have overpowered the subtle rosemary/thyme-infused oil.




Thursday, October 13, 2011

Easy Ham and Bean Soup

Loaded with savory, smoky broth and filled with beans, ham and veggies.


Bean soup (like most homemade soups) is a labor of love. And time. First, there is the all-important ham bone which is one reason people don't make bean soup more often and usually only around the holidays. It's not like we all have meaty ham bones laying around the refrigerator. And then there's the soaking of the beans. And rinsing. And soaking some more. And chopping. Scraping the bone of meat, etc.

There has to be an easier way, I thought. And this recipe is it. Begin with a meaty ham shank and a can of cannellini beans. Throw is some canned chicken stock and veggies and you have great, wonderful tasting soup in two hours. Really. Trust me on this.

If you follow KB, you know how much I love ham shanks. A ham shank is NOT the same as a ham hock. A ham hock is the the pig's ankle. It's bony without much meat, but it's great for flavoring stews and soups. The shank, on the other hand, is like a mini-ham. It's kind of like the pig's "calf" (that's funny--pig and calf). Both are wonderfully smoked, but the shank yields a lot more meat. Unlike ham, the meat is more gelatinous, so it's great for stews and soups and can take long simmering or braising. And they're inexpensive.

Smoked ham shanks are meaty and gelatinous. Perfect for soup and stews.
These were about three dollars, total.

Pork hocks are usually easier to find than shanks. When I lived in Michigan, my local grocer carried large, meaty shanks wonderfully smoked. Ironically, here in the South, they are difficult to find. Even more ironic, the only place that sells them is my local Target Super Store under the brand name "Cooks."

  •  1-lb. meaty, smoked ham shank
  • 1 whole clove
  • 1, 19 oz. can cannellini beans, drained and rinsed (I use Progresso)
  • 3 1/2 cups low-sodium canned chicken stock
  • 1/3 cup chopped onion or leeks (or a combination)
  • 1/3 cup chopped celery
  • 1/2 cup chopped carrots
  • 1 clove garlic, pressed or finely minced
  • 2-3 sprigs fresh thyme or a few pinches dried, whole thyme
  • 1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika (do not omit)





Place all ingredients but the smoked paprika into a 10-cup pot or Dutch oven with lid. Bring just to the boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer for two hours.

Remove thyme stems, clove and ham shank. When cool enough to handle, remove the meat from the shank and dice. Discard bones and fat. Return meat to soup and mix in. Add the 1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika. Stir. Taste for seasonings. Ladle into bowls and serve.


Notes: Paprika and smoked paprika are not the same, so don't substitute. If you really want to make this easy, buy carrots, celery and onions already cut and diced for you in the produce dept. of your local grocery store. Had I a fresh Roma tomato or two, I would have cut them up to add along with the veggies. But the smoked paprika gives a nice color to the soup.