Wednesday, December 13, 2023

How to Make the Absolute Best Baked Potatoes + Video

Never did I ever think I needed instructions how to make a baked potato. 

Last night I scored a T-bone steak marked own eight bucks! I wanted a really good, classic baked potato to go with it. That's when I remembered this recipe from America's Test Kitchen.

Let me just tell you that it was the BEST baked potato I ever had. I'm not kidding. It was not at all gummy or overdone at the ends. The skin was not "slippery" or like wet chewy leather. Instead, the inside was dry and FLUFFY! The potato released easily from the skin. And, oh that skin--it was crackling! You will not be disappointed!

No more nuked potatoes for me. No more wrapping in tin foil. 

This is when it pays to have a countertop oven. I have a compact Breville convection oven. In fact, I never even use my conventional oven. It is storage for pots and pans. I baked mine on the "roast" setting at precisely 450 F degrees.

You will need an instant-read thermometer. A scale helps, too, but is not absolutely necessary.

A little green never hurt. I always try to keep both chives
and parsley going through the winter. If not available, use
some celery leaves. Of course, without guests, who cares?

This recipe calls for four, 9- to 10-ounce Russet potatoes. Choose the nicest you can find. I like to be sure the ends are rounded not tapered. You want Russets for their thick skin. Save the thin-skinned Yukon Golds for mashing. I halved the brine since I only made two. Next time, I'm not sure I will dispose the brine when done; instead, I will save for upcoming week. Why not?
  • 4 Russet potatoes, 7-9 ounces each (if you don't have a scale, weigh them at the market). Choose unblemished, non-bruised with few "eyes" and uniform in shape and size so they all cook evenly at the same time. 
  • 2 tablespoons salt. I used Kosher.
  • 1/2 cup water
  • Vegetable oil (I used olive oil), about 1 tablespoon. Next time I will use bacon fat.

Scrub potatoes well. Using a fork or the tip of a sharp paring knife, lightly prick each potato all around--about a half-dozen times.

Roll in the salt brine. Remove to a rack to dry.

Place on a rack in oven (I used a simple rack I placed on top of oven rack) and roast at 450 F. degrees until the internal temperature reaches 205 F degrees, about 45-60 minutes.

Carefully remove and brush with oil. Return to oven to bake an additional ten minutes.

Remove. Cut an "X" into each skin. Lightly push ends toward center. I have individual earthen, oval-baked bowls I put mine into. For those who love the skin ... you may want to serve with a side of Kosher salt for dipping.

These are Mason and Cash bowls from England. Martha Stewart made them
popular here in the States. They are getting more and more difficult to find.
If you spot them in a thrift store, grab them. They have so many uses.


I have not tried the goat-cheese topping in the video below. I enjoy a ton of butter, salt, pepper, thick sour cream and chives.


Wednesday, October 11, 2023

Simple Three-Legged Chicken Soup with Noodles or Rice

The older I get, the more I appreciate soups. Especially if I'm not feeling well. Right now, I have had "the bug" since January 1. Cooking is not my number one priority.

Anyway, home made soups are super nutritious, fun to make, usually inexpensive, and a great excuse to clean out your fridge.

Chicken soup is my favorite, but not my favorite to make because of the clean-up. It usually involves many large bowls, sieves, utensils, picking through the meat and leftover bones and deflated veggies, not to mention peels and greasy counters and kitchen items.

So, I've been making this small-batch recipe that pushed all the bells and whistles of my desires and tastes: good soup, easy clean-up, inexpensive.

It uses the cheapest of chicken parts: legs (thighs also work, or a combo thereof). Where I shop, I have access to a 3-pack of organic chicken quarters. Rarely are they more than 4 bucks, a real bargain. I'm usually after the thighs, so, after cutting them off, I'm left with three legs. That's when I started making this soup.

I put them in a two-quart saucepan along with some veggies and let it simmer for several hours. It fills my apartment with incredible aromas I can actually inhale if I'm outside on my porch. There's really only one bone in a leg or thigh, and after several hours of simmering, the meat literally falls off the bone, so it's easy to fish out for easy removal without a sieve. The same with the veggies. 


If the strength of the broth is too weak, I add a good tablespoon of chicken Better than Bouillon. That is the ONLY brand I will use. Surprisingly, chicken legs make a superb broth. Refrigerated, it will actually gel.

I usually have the meat with the "pot gravy" for one meal then save the broth for another. For breakfast, nothing is better (or healthier) than warm broth. The body immediately begins to absorb the nutrients.

When all is said and done, I basically just have a single pan to wash. That's it. EZ-PZ. Nutritious. Warming. Delicious.

My favorite way to enjoy broth is with a tiny squeeze of lemon or thin slice of peel, dried dill, and just a pinch of Cayenne or Aleppo pepper. 

Do use dried thyme leaves!!!  Feel free to use other herbs, but thyme is traditional and, in my opinion, should always be used with any chicken recipe. Dill is also nice, but add at the end when serving, not the beginning. The same with rosemary. People just love to use rosemary when making soup. It's a bad idea.  It can easily overpower your broth with a bitter taste. Use at the very end just until your broth is flavored. For roasting a chicken, use all you want when you want. If I have it, I add a thin slice of fresh ginger.

If you like a lot veggies to your soup, cut up celery, onion, carrots in slices/rounds and microwave until beginning to soften. After removing large-sliced veggies, add the new ones and simmer until done,

A few notes: If I want a hearty soup, I add 1-2 nests of pappardelle noodles. When the soup is done,  I simply remove the pan from the burner and put in the balls of noodles, cover the pot and leave it for an hour or so during which time the noodles will lovingly swell with the flavorful broth and unfurl for real-life slurping. These are LONG noodles, hence the reason they are wrapped into a ball-like nest. Buy a good brand. You'll never go back to regular noodles. (Great for beef stews, too!)

If I don't have pappardelle noodles, other pastas work equally well. If you're really in a pinch, just break up some spaghetti. Or use washed/rinsed raw rice--about a good heaping tablespoon.

Since posting this, I have added an extra step. Using kitchen twine, I wind it around the raw chicken leg. This prevents the meat from falling off the bone and makes retrieval much easier. It's not a difficult process and kind of fun.  


  • 3-5 chicken legs. If small, add one or two more and/or a thigh, but you may need a larger pot.
  • 1 large carrot, cleaned, sliced lengthwise, than into 2-3 inch lengths.
  • 1 rib celery, roughly chopped lengthwise for easy retrieval
  • 1/2 medium onion, roughly chopped
  • 1 large garlic clove, smashed, peeled,
  • 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
  • 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme flakes (or a few fresh thyme stems with leaves)
  • If you have it, a few stems fresh parsley
  • If using, one or two nests pappardelle pasta (bronze cut) or no more than a couple tablespoons rinsed long-grain white rice
  • Kosher salt-but only at the very end
  • Chicken Better-than-Bouillion, if needed 
  • 4 cups water or just until the chicken is covered
Wash chicken well. Place in pot. Add vegetables. Add water. Bring just to a boil. Reduce to a low simmer and cook for a good two hours. Never boil your soup stock. It will cloud the broth and create a lot of scum that floats to the top. A slow simmer is all you need.

When done, taste, season with salt. Add one or two nests of pappardelle noodles. Remove from burner and allow to sit until noodles have doubled in size and are tender. Taste again for salt and pepper.

If using rice, add the rinsed rice remembering that it will double in size. Do not remove pot from burner. Place on the lowest heat setting possible and allow to cook a good 15 minutes. Shut off the heat. Keep covered. Allow to rest until rice is tender.

To serve, spoon meat portions or, to be dramatic, the tied up chicken leg, into a bowl along with some of the veggies. Add noodles/rice. If you have it, a flurry of minced parsley is always nice.

This is plenty for a hearty two servings. For one person, you will have left overs. Simply cover the pot until cool, and place in fridge. It will keep for a few days.

An alternative fun way to serving is to remove the chicken legs prior to adding your noodles or rice. Keep as intact as possible and place in a bowl. Sprinkle with a bit of Kosher salt. Keep covered and refrain from pinching off little pieces to nibble.  Finish broth to your satisfaction. To serve, place one chicken leg in the bottom side of a serving bowl. Fill with broth, noodles/rice. Serve. 

I live on the edge of a wood, so things like chicken bones never go to waste, especially in the winter. I throw them where night critters can easily easily enjoy them. 






 

Sunday, October 1, 2023

Grilled Pork Tenderloin with Lime and Ginger Marinade


And ... just like that ... summer disappeared.

In its stead, we are left with a few tomatoes lingering on withering vines. Maybe some stubborn green peppers. Marigolds are wonderfully bushy--even voluptuous, gorgeous, providing camouflage for monarch butterflies who pin themselves to their gowns like broaches.

 But, for the most part, the garden is done. Floral and veggie.

It's all about big-ass bounty. No-nonsense pumpkins. Grenade gourds. Chrysanthemum explosions.

We head indoors to decorate and to garden new recipes. 

Recipes that are a bit hardier. Substantial. Less light.  -burgs and -dogs on the grill wing it South like snowbirds.

Hence,  this recipe.

I have had this particular recipe since the late 90's when it was quite the hit, a child of the now sadly-defunct magazine "Gourmet." The Internet picked it up, in particular, the then-newbie and popular "Epicurious

I made it often, particularly in the summer ... But then I ended up in North Carolina where grills are not allowed in apartment complexes. I tried it without, but you do really need one. Even in the dead of winter.

I had thought this was on my blog but discovered I had mistakenly erased it. I have another pork tenderloin recipe and both begin with the word "marinated." I haphazardly must of nuked this one. I apologize to all who would have tried it. Loved it. Now is your chance.

Don't be put off by the combination of lime and ginger. It's wonderful. 

Please note: this calls for a pork tenderloin, not a loin. Those are two separate cuts of meat. 

I have never felt inclined to make the marmalade. It's up to you  . . . Serve with rice* and a fresh, green veggie such as asparagus or broccolini. Also great with grilled pineapple slices.

I usually half this recipe. Be sure to taste the marinade. I like to be able taste the lime. Some people add a bit of honey or sugar. I never have.

  • 6 large garlic cloves, chopped
  • 2 tablespoons soy sauce
  • 2 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
  • 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
  • 1/3 cup fresh lime juice
  • 1/2 cup olive oil
  • Cayenne to taste (I use Aleppo pepper)
  • 4 pork tenderloins, about 3/4 pound each, trimmed of silver skin and flabby parts. If they have a long "tail," I fold it over and secure with a toothpick. Or just cut it off to make a uniform loin.

To make the marinade: 

In a blender, or small food processor, blend marinade ingredients with  salt and pepper to taste. I like to be able to taste the lime.

In a large, sealable plastic bag, combine pork with marinade. Seal bag, pressing out excess air, and put in a shallow baking dish or on a plate to catch any leakage. Marinate pork, chilled, turning occasionally, at least one day--I've kept it up to two days.

Prepare grill.

Let pork stand at room temperature about 30 minutes before grilling. Remove from marinade, letting excess drip off, and grill on an oiled rack set 5-6 inches over glowing coals, turning every 5 minutes, until a meat thermometer register 160 F, 15-20 minutes. (I prefer 140-145 with just a bit of a blush in the center.)

Transfer meat to a cutting board and let stand 5-10 minutes. Slicing is individual preference and depends on the number of people you are serving. They recommend 1/2-inch slices. I don't really like thick slices or "chunks." You do you.



Marmalade: Warning, lots of stirring . . .

I have never made the marmalade, so I can't really vouch for it one way or another.

  • 1 1/4 lbs. yellow or red onions, chopped fine (about 4 cups)
  • 3 tablespoons olive oil
  • 2 fresh jalapeƱo chilies, seeded and minced (wear rubber gloves
  • 2 tablespoons honey or sugar
  • 3-4 tablespoons red-wine vinegar
  • 1/4 water

In a large, heavy skillet, cook onions in oil with salt and pepper to taste over medium heat, stirring, until softened. Add JalapeƱos and cook, stirring, one minute. Add honey or sugar and cook, stirring, one minute. Add vinegar and simmer, stirring, until almost all liquid is evaporated. Add water and simmer, stirring, until mixture is slightly thickened and onions are very tender, about ten minutes. Season marmalade with salt and pepper. Maybe made two days ahead and shilled, covered. Reheat before serving.

*If you have access to Stonewall Kitchen products, I highly recommend their Citrus Rosemary Sauce to use with the plain white rice. It has a "pineapple" vibe and it's something I mostly always keep on hand because it is so versatile. 






Sunday, September 17, 2023

Privileged Cornbread

 

Here in the South, cornbread is almost always sold in the bakery department at one's local grocery store. And you can count on biscuits to be found on many menus and in the kitchens of Southern born-and-raised folk. Everyone has a secret biscuit recipe or technique passed down from their "meemaw." 

I am a bread snob and prefer artisan-created breads. But they are getting a little too pricey. They are now selling "half loaves," but those are even worse of a deal. 

So I've been making cornbread. In the Colonies, it was called "pone" or "corn pone." A wedge is considered a "pone." It's great in the morning with my coffee. A bit of good butter and jam. Perfect. For lunch, a few slices of cold cuts or since it is still tomato season, a few slices of fresh tomatoes, mayo, salt, pepper and a flutter of basil leaves. Now that's good eating. The cornbread absorbs juice of the tomato and mayo. Yum! And, of course, it's always good with whatever you are having for dinner, especially stews and soups.

The other day while making up a batch, I just happened to have a wedge of blue cheese, half gone, sitting on the counter. Out of curiosity, I crumbled some into the batter and, instead of using sugar, squirted in some honey that needed to be used up.

Man, it was GOOD!

In the past, I have added sour cream and canned cream corn.

Because fresh corn is so abundant right now (really, throughout the year), I decided to try fresh corn kernels and they did not disappoint. Frozen and canned, I think, can bake up a bit chewy. Fresh remained plumper, sweeter and crisper.

I use this handy tool for corn. Yes, you need one!

I finely diced a green onion and threw that in. 

I love this gadget! You will, too!

Since it was a small loaf, I used the rest of the corn and another scallion to make a saute to serve with dinner.

Die-hard Southerners insist on white corn meal. And no sugar.  To appease both sides, I simply mix white and yellow together which I keep in 1/2 gallon jar. Problem solved.

I do like sugar, though. Many who insist on no sugar in cornbread end up slathering it with sugar in the form of honey, molasses, or some kind of syrup. So, really, what's the difference?

It's traditional to bake cornbread in a cast iron skillet that is HOT with melted grease. And lots of it. Never a square pan. It is cut into wedges and served warm. 

I have several of these Lodge cast-iron skillets. The two handles are very handy.
It's considered an 8-inch skillet. The bottom is 6-inches. Also great for macaroni
and cheese and Dutch Baby pancakes. Amazon used to sell them in sets
of two, but not anymore. Often, they are on sale.
You can also get a lid, separately. 

Honey is not cheap. So, here I have used white sugar.

I always have bacon fat on hand because I buy it in containers. Many grocery stores now stock it: "BACON UP." And lard. Lard is pork fat. Both are healthier than butter and certainly better for you than any "seed oil." Bacon up has a slight smoky, bacon flavor and is perfect for frying eggs. It's also great for greasing the sides of casserole dishes. Add a bit to boiled beans to perk up the flavor. Ironically, it's cheaper at the grocery store than to order on Amazon. It has a long shelf life. I wouldn't be without it.

Also, buy a 'wedge' of cheese. Crumbles are just leftovers ... You don't need a gourmet brand here. My preferred brand is "Litehouse Simply Artisan Blue Cheese Center Cut," but it's getting more and more difficult to find. That is some good blue cheese for the money!


  • .5 or one-half cup yellow cornmeal
  • .5 or one-half cup all-purpose flour, preferably unbleached
  • 1/4 - 1/3 cup white sugar
  • 2 teaspoons baking powder
  • 2-3 tablespoons melted bacon fat plus more for the pan
  • 1 egg plus one egg yolk
  • 1/2 cup buttermilk maybe 1-2 tablespoons more
  • 1/4 cup crumbled blue cheese from a whole wedge
  • 1 green onion, white and green parts
  • 1/4 to 1/2 cup fresh corn kernels
  • a dasher two of garlic powder
  • a dash or two of ground black pepper

Preheat oven to 400 F. 

To a six or seven-inch cast-iron skillet, add at least one but not more than 2 tablespoons lard, bacon fat, shortening, butter or a combination thereof. Avoid all butter; it scorches easily. Place in oven to melt and to heat up the pan. You want a puddle of grease, not a thin coating. Why? It is what produces the great crust for the bread.

In a medium bowl, add your cornmeal, flour, sugar, baking powder, garlic and pepper. Stir to combine.

In a small bowl, mix eggs, milk and melted fat. Add to dry ingredients and stir just until combined. Batter will be a bit thick. If too thick, add a bit more buttermilk, but you don't want your batter thin, like a pancake batter. Cornbread batter is forgiving and usually bakes up nice.

Gently mix in broken up cheese, onion and corn. 

Carefully, and with oven mitts, remove pan from oven. Gently swirl grease from bottom of pan to coat sides. Or use a brush or spoon. 

Gently and evenly, fill hot pan with batter. It will immediately begin to cook the edges. Return to oven and bake for about 20-25 minutes. The top should be golden with the pone pulling away from sides of pan with just a bit of sizzling grease. A toothpick or cake tester when inserted should come out clean.

WARNING! PAN WILL BE EXTREMELY HOT. USE PRECAUTION. USE OVEN MITTS, HEAVY POTHOLDERS. AVOID DISTRACTIONS. Place wire rack on top of pan and flip. Then re-flip and keep on wire rack to cool.

This is fine eaten on its own without butter or syrups. It is a bit on the rich side. Is it white-privilege rich? I don't think so. Cornbread, like all food,  has always been for everyone and that's how it should stay!