Friday, January 28, 2011

Ham and Hominy Soup



Look for thick, juicy ham shanks, such as these. A ham shank is NOT the same
as a ham hock.
As delicious to eat as it is beautiful to look at, this colorful soup is studded with bright, yellow hominy (corn) to contrast with the orange tomatoes and pink chunks of ham. And it’s pretty easy and inexpensive to prepare, too. You basically chop one onion and some garlic and open and dump cans and throw in some spices. But don't be fooled by the simplicity of it all. The depth of tastes will win you over. I've even had people pay me money to make them a potful.

This recipe really began as a "stew." But people often commented on the deep, rich "broth" and wanted more! So I transformed it into a savory soup. It's one of my favorites.

  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 large onion, chopped
  • 2 teaspoons ground cumin or freshly-ground cumin seeds (I grind my own)
  • 1 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme leaves, crumbled
  • 1/2 - 1 teaspoon smoked paprika (optional)
  • 1-2 bay leaves, depending on size and freshness
  • 1/2 teaspoon dried, crushed red-pepper flakes-or to taste
  • 1.5 to 2 pounds smoked ham shanks
  • 6-8 cups canned chicken broth
  • 1, 14 1/2-ounce can sliced stewed tomatoes with juice
  • 3-4 large garlic cloves, finely chopped
  • 2, 15-ounce cans golden hominy, drained and rinsed (avoid generic brands)




Heat oil in Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add onion, cumin, thyme, bay leaf and red-pepper flakes. Sauté 5 minutes. Add ham shanks, broth, tomatoes and garlic. The tomato slices will break down as they cook. Bring to a simmer. Cover and cook until shanks are tender, at least 1 1/2 hours, but longer is even better. I often go for an entire afternoon.

Carefully remove ham shanks and place on a cutting board. Remove meat and cut into bite-sized pieces. Discard fat and bones. Return meat to pot. Add drained-and-rinsed hominy and simmer until hominy is just tender, about 15-30 minutes. Add the smoked paprika, if using. Ladle into deep bowls and serve. (Can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cover and refrigerate. Reheat until heated through.)

For garnish, dollop with sour cream and sprinkle with grated cheddar cheese.

NOTES: Because ham can be salty, use broth, hominy, and tomatoes that are low in sodium compared to other brands. I crush the cumin seeds in a mortar and pestle. A ham "hock" is the foot of the pig and has little meat. The "shank" is above the foot and has lots of lean meat. Like ham, they are usually smoked.





Tuesday, January 25, 2011

Potato Soup with Leeks, Mushrooms and Dill


Insanely delicious!

I woke up in the middle of the night and, at three in the morning I just couldn't stand it any longer. I methodically got out of bed and  found myself standing in front of the opened refrigerator door. I needed--craved--just one more tiny bowl of this amazing soup! Light, yet intense, with a perfect blend of flavors, every spoonful is savored. Even cold. You want more. And then you lick the bowl clean!

Yes, it's a lot of chopping. But, trust me, it's worth it! And do not, under any circumstances, sub onions for the leeks--NO NO NO! Feel free to mix in cream or sour cream at the end for a traditional "potage," but I found the flavorings perfect, not wanting them compromised in any way. 




  • 2 leeks, white and light green parts only for 2 cups finely chopped
  • 2 pounds red potatoes (about 8 medium) diced, for 4 cups
  • 1 cup chopped carrots
  • 1 large garlic clove, minced
  • 1 pound mushrooms, chopped. If you don't have quite one pound then use:
  • 1, 4-oz. can/jar mushrooms, drained, reserve the juice (optional, see note below)
  • 6 cups chicken stock (canned is fine) or bone broth**, including the mushroom juice
  • 1/4 -1/2 teaspoon dried thyme leaves (use less to begin with)
  • 2-3 teaspoons dried dill weed
  • 2 teaspoons Kosher salt, plus extra for seasoning
  • Pepper, freshly ground, to taste
  • Butter and olive oil
Slice the leeks lengthwise and then slice each half again lengthwise. Finely chop. Peel carrots and chop. Slice and chop mushrooms, discarding stems if necessary. Peel potatoes. Slice into about 3/4-inch rounds and then slice each round into fourths or sixths. Set aside.

In a Dutch oven, add about 1 tablespoon each butter and olive oil. When melted, add fresh mushrooms, a bit of salt and pepper and the dried thyme. Saute until soft and juicy, adding more butter if necessary. Remove to a small bowl and add in canned, drained mushrooms, if using.




In same pan, add 2 tablespoons butter and 1 tablespoon olive oil. When melted, add the leeks and carrots and cook for about five-eight minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Add two teaspoons dried dill weed and minced garlic. Stir just until fragrant. 

Add chicken stock and 2 teaspoons salt. Bring to a simmer. Add diced potatoes. Cover and simmer for about 30 minutes until potatoes are soft but still hold together. Add mushrooms. Stir. Re-cover and simmer about 15 minutes.

Taste for seasonings adding salt, pepper, thyme, and dill if needed. Using the back of a slotted spoon, begin mashing about half of the potatoes against the side of the pan. This will thicken the soup. Remove from heat and allow to sit, covered, for about 30 minutes. Stir before serving. Sometimes I add a tablespoon or two of butter.

If desired, serve in individual bowls with a dollop of sour cream and a sprinkle of dill.

Lock the refrigerator door before going to bed.



Notes: If I don't quite have 1 lb. of mushrooms, I'll add the canned mushrooms.

** I recommend College Inn Bone Broth. Of course, home made is best ...







Friday, January 21, 2011

Instant-Pot, Ground-Beef Chili with Cheddar-Cheese Biscuits


IP UPDATE: I recently purchased a new IP. Be aware that newer versions are more sensitive to the "burn" mode/warning. When I made this it scorched badly, so you may need to add a liquid, such as water or broth.

There are two foods, maybe three, for which no two people will ever agree on how to prepare: meatloaf and chili (the third is ribs). I suppose it all has to do with what one grew up with as a child. I have had chili that was totally bland and tasteless and chili that was so hot and spicy that it bordered on the absurd. For some reason, insanely hot has, in this country, been equated with testosterone and masculinity. Maybe it's the "climax" factor of feeling your head is about to catch on fire and explode: OMG! OMG! OMG! 

Truth be told? My favorite chili of all time was served in the cafeteria at the small-town school in which I taught for twenty years. It was a beautiful Midwestern-blend of mild chili and spices, peppers, tomato--with just a hint of sweetness. Often, it was served with a slice of "government" yellow cheese and a chunk of cornbread. Their beef stew was to die for. 

The recipe below is a no-nonsense, non-offensive recipe that is palatable to many, including children. It does not use chocolate or cocoa or peanut butter or beer, ingredients now popular to add to chili. You control the "heat" by the amount of spice mixture and jalapeno you add. The smoked paprika (do not substitute regular paprika), ancho powder along with the bacon give a nice "campfire" feel to the dish. Like soups, it's important to taste and to correct seasonings throughout the cooking process.

If you want "kid friendly," omit jalapeños and ancho powder.

If you do not own a pressure cooker, just simmer on the stove for about 90 minutes, stirring and tasting occasionally. You may not need to add as much beef stock.

Yea, I know . . . it's a pretty sad-looking onion but it's all I had . . .
According to my Italian customers, a green pepper with three lobes,
like the one above,  is best for eating raw. A four-lobed pepper is
better for cooking.


  • One pound ground chuck
  • 4-6 slices smoked bacon, cut into 2-inch pieces
  • 2, 14.5 ounce can dark red kidney beans, undrained
  • 1 large onion, chopped (10 ounces)
  • 1 medium green bell pepper, chopped
  • 1, 3-inch jalapeno pepper, seeded and ribbed, finely chopped (save seeds) OR
  • 1 small can HATCH green chilies, mild or hot
  • 3-4 large garlic cloves, sliced
  • 1, 4 ounce can tomato sauce
  • 1, 14.5 ounce can fire roasted diced tomatoes, undrained
  • 1 tablespoon tomato paste
  • 1 teaspoon cumin seed, freshly ground, depending on taste
  • 1 tablespoon chili powder
  • 2 teaspoons smoked paprika
  • 2 teaspoons smoked ancho chili powder
  • 3/4 teaspoon dried oregano leaves
  • 1 good teaspoon onion powder
  • 1 tablespoon soy sauce
  • 1 tablespoon cider vinegar
  • 3-4 teaspoons brown sugar
  • 1 plus cup beef/chicken stock (you will need this for Instant Pot so it doesn't go to "burn" mode. For stove top, use about half


First, in a small saucer or dish, mix all of your dried spices together. Why? Some chili powders may be old. Brands differ wildly in heat and taste. By not adding all of them at once to your chili, you control the degree of "heat" you want.

Turn Instant Pot to "saute" mode. Add the bacon, onion, green pepper, some of the jalapeno, and garlic. Stir, add about half of the dried spices. Saute until bacon renders fat and vegetables begin to soften. If too dry, add of water. At this point, if you taste it, it will be very spicy. Remove to a bowl.

Add ground beef and tomato paste to IP and brown. Add vegetable/spiced mixture to the ground beef. Add tomato sauce and diced tomatoes. Stir. Add soy sauce. Add one can kidney beans and beef or chicken stock. Bring to a simmer. Now taste for seasonings and spice. If needed, add more of your powder mixture remembering you still have other ingredients to add.

Place cover on IP and seal. Pressure cook for 10 minutes. Do a quick release. Add cider vinegar, brown sugar, and the remaining can of kidney beans. Cover. Seal. Pressure cook 5-7 minutes. Do a quick release and taste for seasonings. If you want it a bit spicier, add some jalapeno seeds and/or spice mixture.





It's important to taste your jalapeño pepper. Some are hotter than others;
others are more mild. This particular one was quite mild
and I could have used another one.

Stove top: Allow chili to simmer on stove for about one hour. If you want more heat, add some of the jalapeno seeds. Add additional smoked paprika and/or chili seasoning if needed. Add the cider vinegar (if using) and about 2 teaspoons of the brown sugar. Stir. Re-cover and simmer for an additional 30-40 minutes. If too dry, add some of the reserved liquid from the red beans. Taste again and re-season, if necessary. Now add the undrained red kidney beans and allow to simmer about 20 minutes. To serve, place in a bowl and top with a bit of sour cream and shredded cheese.




Cheese Biscuits

Step-by-step instructions for making biscuits can be found by clicking on the link below:

These tender biscuits use White Lily Self-Rising Flour, a flour easily found in the South but only in gourmet grocery stores in the North. If you don't have access to it, use cake flour and follow the instructions from above for "Cake Flour Biscuits" cutting the recipe in half.

  • 1 cup White Lily Self-Rising Flour
  • 1/2 teaspoon aluminum-free baking powder
  • 2 teaspoons granulated sugar
  • 1/2 teaspoon onion powder
  • 1 tablespoon cold lard or shortening
  • 1 tablespoon cold butter
  • 1/3 - 1/2 cup cold milk
  • 1/2 cup freshly-shredded extra-sharp cheddar (I prefer white cheddar)


Pre-heat oven to 500 degrees. Line a small baking sheet with a piece of tin foil. Do not begin making biscuits until oven is pre-heated.



Add all the dry ingredients in a medium bowl and stir.

In a small bowl, shred the cheese. Sprinkle with one tablespoon of the flour mixture, carefully tossing with a fork to coat the cheese so it does not stick together. Reserve.

Using a pastry blender, cut in the lard (or shortening) and the butter until crumbly and flour bits are the size of small peas. Now fluff in the cheese mixture. Using a knife or fork, add the milk, using just enough until the dough leaves the side of the bowl. Turn onto a lightly floured surface and knead a few times to get dough to come together. Do not over knead. Gently pat 1/2-inch thick and cut into 2 - 2 1/2 inch circles. Gently re-pat scraps and cut again. Place biscuits on foil-lined sheet and bake 8-10 minutes, just until golden brown. Brush with melted butter immediately. Makes 5-6 biscuits.

While biscuits are traditionally served piping hot from the oven, I think the cheese flavor of these biscuits is more pronounced if served warm, even cold.

















Tuesday, January 18, 2011

Mashed Potato Cakes with Ham, Cheese, and Scallions


Potato cakes are entries common in older cookbooks. I've had my eye on one from the 1930s for some time now and adapted it for this recipe. Hint: Do not wait until you have "leftover" mashed potatoes or, like me, you'll never make them. Mash some potatoes just for this recipe. Really, how difficult is that? And, to be truthful, they will turn out better because they are not loaded with butter and milk so you won't have to add more flour.

But enough small talk. Let's talk taste. Well, let's just say I've been making these for the past three days! The savory blend of creamy potato with ham, cheese and green onion is classic. And rich--especially topped with a dollop of sour cream. With a simple bowl of soup, they are a meal by themselves. With a fried or poached egg or two, it's a breakfast made in heaven. And I could see these as a great appetizer, for sure. They are also great comfort food for someone not feeling well. They are warm, filling, and go down easy.

Lately, I'm obsessed with things that are round . . . . potato cakes
and poached eggs . . . not just for breakfast!

For my first batch, I already had all the ingredients on hand, including leftover ham. You could readily use a thick slice or two of deli ham, such as Boar's Head Tavern Ham. Just about any cheese will work. Since I had them on hand, I've used a combo of Fontinella, White Cheddar and a bit of Mozzarella. When I have it, I will use Gruyere. I'm sure Swiss would be great, too--even a smoked Gouda. Just choose a cheese that will melt well.

These are easy to prepare the day before serving and I actually suggest covering and refrigerating the "dough" to let the flavors mix. I prefer to lightly coat them with Panko breadcrumbs which gives just the right amount of crunch to contrast with the soft cake itself or just lightly dusted with flour. If using a cast-iron skillet, watch them closely so they don't scorch. I made large ones for my first batch but found smaller ones much better.

  • 1 pound russet potatoes, peeled and cut for boiling (1 lb. is about 1 cup mashed)
  • 1 cup mashed potatoes
  • 1/2 cup ground ham
  • 1/2 cup grated cheese (White cheddar, Swiss, Gruyere, etc.)
  • 2 tablespoons chopped scallions, mostly white and light green parts
  • 4 tablespoons White Lily self-rising flour*
  • 1 egg yolk
  • Salt
  • Pepper
  • Freshly-grated nutmeg
  • Tabasco
  • Oil/butter for frying


Boil potatoes and then mash using a pastry blender. You should end up with about one cup of mashed potatoes. Season with salt, pepper, several grates of nutmeg and a few shakes of Tabasco. Allow to cool.

Cut ham into small squares and place in mini food processor. Chop/pulse until nicely ground. Grate cheese using large holes on box grater. Chop scallions. Set aside.

Note the nice grind of ham. You don't want "lumpy."

Add egg yolk to potato mixture and stir in. Sprinkle in flour one tablespoon at a time and work in with pastry blender. Dough will be soft. Now mix in the ham, cheese, and scallions. If possible, refrigerate for an hour or two.


Scoop dough into a 1/4 measuring cup and using your hands form into a 2-1/2 inch patty. They should be at least 1/2-inch thick. Sprinkle lightly with Panko bread crumbs or flour.


Heat oil or oil/butter in a pan and lightly fry until golden brown. Flip. Brown other side. 


Drain a bit on paper towel. Sprinkle with several grinds of fresh salt. Plate. Place a few nibs of butter on each along with a dollop of sour cream.

Makes about 6-8 cakes.

*White Lily Flour is readily available here in the South. It is a very soft, powder-like flour. If you don't have access to it, you may use cake flour. If using regular flour, I suggest decreasing amount to 3 tablespoons. I'm not sure that 'self-rising' flour really makes a difference.