Monday, January 31, 2011

Homemade Sausages




A plastic bag replaces the familiar casing that a sausage
is packed into. It is then poached in water.

One of the joys of visiting Europe is sampling the many sausages that are a part of their everyday culture. Recipes differ from town to town, region and country. They are a staple of "pub" food. We all know "bangers and mash."

Unfortunately, that's not the case in the United States. Here, we are limited to several mass-produced "corporate" varieties found in supermarkets and they are usually limited to Polish sausage, smoked sausage and Kielbasa. If one is able to find fresh, uniquely-seasoned sausages they are not cheap.

Ziploc "Brats" with boiled potatoes and spicy mustard.
Since I don't have a meat grinder or casings, and since I'm not planning to produce gargantuan supplies of links, I settled on pre-ground pork that is about two bucks a pound and will make four sausages. A real bargain in today's economy of high-priced meats, especially beef.

I went through dozens of recipes scaling them down to fit the quantity and to satisfy my taste buds. As first, I simply fried them. But the heat and oil woefully compromised the taste and often masked the subtle flavors of the spices. What to do?

That's when I hit upon the idea of using plastic bags and poaching the sausage. It worked like a charm!

Be sure to use name-brand bags for freezer or for cooking.
They are less likely to leak at the corners than generic.
Pictured here: Spicy Kielbasa.



SAUSAGE ADVICE
  1. Use name-brand, pint-sized plastic bags. Generic are usually thinner and the corners leak so you will lose the poaching liquid inside the bag resulting in a very dry sausage. Name-brand, such as Ziploc, do not contain BPA, a harmful chemical.
  2. Use less, not more, of each spice if in doubt. You can always add more later on. Keep a notepad nearby to record what you add.
  3. I actually prefer dried spices and herbs, but prefer fresh garlic that is smashed into a paste. Use fresh cheese, not canned/powdered which can dry the sausage.
  4. After mixing, place a good teaspoonful on a plate and microwave for about 30 seconds or until no pink remains in center. Taste. Adjust seasonings accordingly.
  5. The ideal sausage mixture is 70/30. Pre-ground pork is 80/20, but it's okay. If you have a friendly butcher, he will be more than happy to grind some fresh suet for you. You can also add ground bacon. Allow it to partially freeze, cut into chunks and grind in your food processor. But remember it will alter the taste of your sausage.
  6. As the sausages poach, they will shrink. Sometimes the bag will, too.
  7. Be sure to add the water to your mix. This adds moisture and helps to incorporate the spices. You may also add olive oil, which I find myself doing more and more.
  8. If possible, refrigerate your mixture for several hours or overnight before forming into sausages.
  9. These freeze beautifully. I allow mine to thaw before poaching. 
  10. If you want, carefully remove sausages a bit before they are done and brown in a bit of butter/olive oil. 
  11. Smoked paprika adds great smoky taste to homemade sausages.
  12. Because they are lower in fat than regular sausages, condiments work well with Ziploc sausages.
  13. If your sausage mixture ends up too strong in spicy flavors, form into patties and fry. Frying reduces the strong tastes. 
  14. Here's a great site for sausage recipes and even supplies: Len Poli's Sausage Making - Homemade Sausage Formulations and Recipes

Put 1/2 cup sausage mixture in bag and using the the side
of your hand at a bit of an angle,
push into the bottom to begin forming
the sausage.
Roll to for a round sausage.
Simmer for about 15-20 minutes. Try to keep
tops of bags upright.

Allow poached sausage to sit in their pouch
for 5- 10 minutes to absorb liquid.



RECIPES

Adjust seasonings to your taste for recipes. Sometimes I divide the meat into half-pound amounts and add something different to one to see how it turns out. Be sure to add water. I like to mix the meat mixture with the back of wide metal spoon, pushing down and sliding it forward.



BRATWURST
1 pound ground pork sausage
1/2 teaspoon fresh-ground caraway seed
1/2 teaspoon dried marjoram leaf, crumbled
1/2 teaspoon allspice
1/4 teaspoon coriander
1/4 teaspoon garlic powder
1/2 teaspoon onion powder
1 teaspoon brown sugar (optional)
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
2 tablespoons water

These are especially good served with sauteed onions and peppers and, of course, spicy mustard. I also make a sandwich out of them by slicing them thinly lengthwise and then placing on bread with a bit of Dijon.




 SAVORY POLISH SAUSAGE
1 pound ground pork
1 teaspoon crushed onion flakes
1 good teaspoon fresh garlic, pressed
1- 2 teaspoons dried marjoram leaves, crushed
1/4 teaspoon allspice, preferably whole berries, crushed
1/2 teaspoon salt
Pepper--several grinds
1/8 teaspoon crushed, dried rosemary
1/8 teaspoon thyme flakes (scant)
a few pinches of: dried mustard
pinch of sage
2 pinches Cayenne pepper (optional)
Drizzle of olive oil
3 tablespoons water


This is especially good with a side of horseradish for dipping. Serve with boiled potatoes and sauerkraut. Makes a great sandwich on rye spread with horseradish.



It's difficult to know the the fat ratio of pre-ground chicken. Serve with a simple side of mayonnaise for dipping, homemade mayo is even better!

CHICKEN SAUSAGES
1 pound ground chicken
2 teaspoons onion powder
1/4 teaspoon garlic powder
1/4 teaspoon allspice
1/8 teaspoon ground ginger
1/4 teaspoon smoked paprika (optional)
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
pinch of thyme
pinch of savory or sage
2 tablespoons water


CHICKEN SAUSAGES
WITH SUN-DRIED TOMATOES AND SPICES
1 pound ground chicken
1 1/2 ounces sun-dried tomatoes that have been soaked in water and squeezed dry (save the water)
2.5 ounces finely diced onions or 2-3 teaspoons dried
1 teaspoon coriander seed
1 teaspoon dried rosemary
1 teaspoon oregano
1 teaspoon celery seed
1/2 teaspoon thyme
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons tomato water


ITALIAN SAUSAGE
1 pound ground pork
1-3 teaspoons fresh garlic paste (to taste)
1/2 teaspoon onion powder
1 1/2 teaspoons crushed fennel seed
1/8 teaspoon coriander
3/4 teaspoon dried crushed rosemary
1 tablespoon dried parsley flakes
1/4-1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes (to taste)
1 teaspoon salt
1 - 2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese
2 tablespoons water

Once poached, slice and serve with your favorite marinara sauce over pasta. 

After poaching a bit, I sauteed this Italian sausage in a bit
of olive oil and butter to brown it (but first I sliced off
an end to eat!).

Enjoy making sausages. They are inexpensive and it's fun to experiment with ingredients. They make for a great dinner. Simply remove from the freezer. And they make great "gifts, " too. 















Friday, January 28, 2011

Ham and Hominy Soup



Look for thick, juicy ham shanks, such as these. A ham shank is NOT the same
as a ham hock.
As delicious to eat as it is beautiful to look at, this colorful soup is studded with bright, yellow hominy (corn) to contrast with the orange tomatoes and pink chunks of ham. And it’s pretty easy and inexpensive to prepare, too. You basically chop one onion and some garlic and open and dump cans and throw in some spices. But don't be fooled by the simplicity of it all. The depth of tastes will win you over. I've even had people pay me money to make them a potful.

This recipe really began as a "stew." But people often commented on the deep, rich "broth" and wanted more! So I transformed it into a savory soup. It's one of my favorites.

  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 large onion, chopped
  • 2 teaspoons ground cumin or freshly-ground cumin seeds (I grind my own)
  • 1 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme leaves, crumbled
  • 1/2 - 1 teaspoon smoked paprika (optional)
  • 1-2 bay leaves, depending on size and freshness
  • 1/2 teaspoon dried, crushed red-pepper flakes-or to taste
  • 1.5 to 2 pounds smoked ham shanks
  • 6-8 cups canned chicken broth
  • 1, 14 1/2-ounce can sliced stewed tomatoes with juice
  • 3-4 large garlic cloves, finely chopped
  • 2, 15-ounce cans golden hominy, drained and rinsed (avoid generic brands)




Heat oil in Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add onion, cumin, thyme, bay leaf and red-pepper flakes. Sauté 5 minutes. Add ham shanks, broth, tomatoes and garlic. The tomato slices will break down as they cook. Bring to a simmer. Cover and cook until shanks are tender, at least 1 1/2 hours, but longer is even better. I often go for an entire afternoon.

Carefully remove ham shanks and place on a cutting board. Remove meat and cut into bite-sized pieces. Discard fat and bones. Return meat to pot. Add drained-and-rinsed hominy and simmer until hominy is just tender, about 15-30 minutes. Add the smoked paprika, if using. Ladle into deep bowls and serve. (Can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cover and refrigerate. Reheat until heated through.)

For garnish, dollop with sour cream and sprinkle with grated cheddar cheese.

NOTES: Because ham can be salty, use broth, hominy, and tomatoes that are low in sodium compared to other brands. I crush the cumin seeds in a mortar and pestle. A ham "hock" is the foot of the pig and has little meat. The "shank" is above the foot and has lots of lean meat. Like ham, they are usually smoked.





Tuesday, January 25, 2011

Potato Soup with Leeks, Mushrooms and Dill


Insanely delicious!

I woke up in the middle of the night and, at three in the morning I just couldn't stand it any longer. I methodically got out of bed and  found myself standing in front of the opened refrigerator door. I needed--craved--just one more tiny bowl of this amazing soup! Light, yet intense, with a perfect blend of flavors, every spoonful is savored. Even cold. You want more. And then you lick the bowl clean!

Yes, it's a lot of chopping. But, trust me, it's worth it! And do not, under any circumstances, sub onions for the leeks--NO NO NO! Feel free to mix in cream or sour cream at the end for a traditional "potage," but I found the flavorings perfect, not wanting them compromised in any way. 




  • 2 leeks, white and light green parts only for 2 cups finely chopped
  • 2 pounds red potatoes (about 8 medium) diced, for 4 cups
  • 1 cup chopped carrots
  • 1 large garlic clove, minced
  • 1 pound mushrooms, chopped. If you don't have quite one pound then use:
  • 1, 4-oz. can/jar mushrooms, drained, reserve the juice (optional, see note below)
  • 6 cups chicken stock (canned is fine) or bone broth**, including the mushroom juice
  • 1/4 -1/2 teaspoon dried thyme leaves (use less to begin with)
  • 2-3 teaspoons dried dill weed
  • 2 teaspoons Kosher salt, plus extra for seasoning
  • Pepper, freshly ground, to taste
  • Butter and olive oil
Slice the leeks lengthwise and then slice each half again lengthwise. Finely chop. Peel carrots and chop. Slice and chop mushrooms, discarding stems if necessary. Peel potatoes. Slice into about 3/4-inch rounds and then slice each round into fourths or sixths. Set aside.

In a Dutch oven, add about 1 tablespoon each butter and olive oil. When melted, add fresh mushrooms, a bit of salt and pepper and the dried thyme. Saute until soft and juicy, adding more butter if necessary. Remove to a small bowl and add in canned, drained mushrooms, if using.




In same pan, add 2 tablespoons butter and 1 tablespoon olive oil. When melted, add the leeks and carrots and cook for about five-eight minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Add two teaspoons dried dill weed and minced garlic. Stir just until fragrant. 

Add chicken stock and 2 teaspoons salt. Bring to a simmer. Add diced potatoes. Cover and simmer for about 30 minutes until potatoes are soft but still hold together. Add mushrooms. Stir. Re-cover and simmer about 15 minutes.

Taste for seasonings adding salt, pepper, thyme, and dill if needed. Using the back of a slotted spoon, begin mashing about half of the potatoes against the side of the pan. This will thicken the soup. Remove from heat and allow to sit, covered, for about 30 minutes. Stir before serving. Sometimes I add a tablespoon or two of butter.

If desired, serve in individual bowls with a dollop of sour cream and a sprinkle of dill.

Lock the refrigerator door before going to bed.



Notes: If I don't quite have 1 lb. of mushrooms, I'll add the canned mushrooms.

** I recommend College Inn Bone Broth. Of course, home made is best ...







Friday, January 21, 2011

Instant-Pot, Ground-Beef Chili with Cheddar-Cheese Biscuits


IP UPDATE: I recently purchased a new IP. Be aware that newer versions are more sensitive to the "burn" mode/warning. When I made this it scorched badly, so you may need to add a liquid, such as water or broth.

There are two foods, maybe three, for which no two people will ever agree on how to prepare: meatloaf and chili (the third is ribs). I suppose it all has to do with what one grew up with as a child. I have had chili that was totally bland and tasteless and chili that was so hot and spicy that it bordered on the absurd. For some reason, insanely hot has, in this country, been equated with testosterone and masculinity. Maybe it's the "climax" factor of feeling your head is about to catch on fire and explode: OMG! OMG! OMG! 

Truth be told? My favorite chili of all time was served in the cafeteria at the small-town school in which I taught for twenty years. It was a beautiful Midwestern-blend of mild chili and spices, peppers, tomato--with just a hint of sweetness. Often, it was served with a slice of "government" yellow cheese and a chunk of cornbread. Their beef stew was to die for. 

The recipe below is a no-nonsense, non-offensive recipe that is palatable to many, including children. It does not use chocolate or cocoa or peanut butter or beer, ingredients now popular to add to chili. You control the "heat" by the amount of spice mixture and jalapeno you add. The smoked paprika (do not substitute regular paprika), ancho powder along with the bacon give a nice "campfire" feel to the dish. Like soups, it's important to taste and to correct seasonings throughout the cooking process.

If you want "kid friendly," omit jalapeños and ancho powder.

If you do not own a pressure cooker, just simmer on the stove for about 90 minutes, stirring and tasting occasionally. You may not need to add as much beef stock.

Yea, I know . . . it's a pretty sad-looking onion but it's all I had . . .
According to my Italian customers, a green pepper with three lobes,
like the one above,  is best for eating raw. A four-lobed pepper is
better for cooking.


  • One pound ground chuck
  • 4-6 slices smoked bacon, cut into 2-inch pieces
  • 2, 14.5 ounce can dark red kidney beans, undrained
  • 1 large onion, chopped (10 ounces)
  • 1 medium green bell pepper, chopped
  • 1, 3-inch jalapeno pepper, seeded and ribbed, finely chopped (save seeds) OR
  • 1 small can HATCH green chilies, mild or hot
  • 3-4 large garlic cloves, sliced
  • 1, 4 ounce can tomato sauce
  • 1, 14.5 ounce can fire roasted diced tomatoes, undrained
  • 1 tablespoon tomato paste
  • 1 teaspoon cumin seed, freshly ground, depending on taste
  • 1 tablespoon chili powder
  • 2 teaspoons smoked paprika
  • 2 teaspoons smoked ancho chili powder
  • 3/4 teaspoon dried oregano leaves
  • 1 good teaspoon onion powder
  • 1 tablespoon soy sauce
  • 1 tablespoon cider vinegar
  • 3-4 teaspoons brown sugar
  • 1 plus cup beef/chicken stock (you will need this for Instant Pot so it doesn't go to "burn" mode. For stove top, use about half


First, in a small saucer or dish, mix all of your dried spices together. Why? Some chili powders may be old. Brands differ wildly in heat and taste. By not adding all of them at once to your chili, you control the degree of "heat" you want.

Turn Instant Pot to "saute" mode. Add the bacon, onion, green pepper, some of the jalapeno, and garlic. Stir, add about half of the dried spices. Saute until bacon renders fat and vegetables begin to soften. If too dry, add of water. At this point, if you taste it, it will be very spicy. Remove to a bowl.

Add ground beef and tomato paste to IP and brown. Add vegetable/spiced mixture to the ground beef. Add tomato sauce and diced tomatoes. Stir. Add soy sauce. Add one can kidney beans and beef or chicken stock. Bring to a simmer. Now taste for seasonings and spice. If needed, add more of your powder mixture remembering you still have other ingredients to add.

Place cover on IP and seal. Pressure cook for 10 minutes. Do a quick release. Add cider vinegar, brown sugar, and the remaining can of kidney beans. Cover. Seal. Pressure cook 5-7 minutes. Do a quick release and taste for seasonings. If you want it a bit spicier, add some jalapeno seeds and/or spice mixture.





It's important to taste your jalapeño pepper. Some are hotter than others;
others are more mild. This particular one was quite mild
and I could have used another one.

Stove top: Allow chili to simmer on stove for about one hour. If you want more heat, add some of the jalapeno seeds. Add additional smoked paprika and/or chili seasoning if needed. Add the cider vinegar (if using) and about 2 teaspoons of the brown sugar. Stir. Re-cover and simmer for an additional 30-40 minutes. If too dry, add some of the reserved liquid from the red beans. Taste again and re-season, if necessary. Now add the undrained red kidney beans and allow to simmer about 20 minutes. To serve, place in a bowl and top with a bit of sour cream and shredded cheese.




Cheese Biscuits

Step-by-step instructions for making biscuits can be found by clicking on the link below:

These tender biscuits use White Lily Self-Rising Flour, a flour easily found in the South but only in gourmet grocery stores in the North. If you don't have access to it, use cake flour and follow the instructions from above for "Cake Flour Biscuits" cutting the recipe in half.

  • 1 cup White Lily Self-Rising Flour
  • 1/2 teaspoon aluminum-free baking powder
  • 2 teaspoons granulated sugar
  • 1/2 teaspoon onion powder
  • 1 tablespoon cold lard or shortening
  • 1 tablespoon cold butter
  • 1/3 - 1/2 cup cold milk
  • 1/2 cup freshly-shredded extra-sharp cheddar (I prefer white cheddar)


Pre-heat oven to 500 degrees. Line a small baking sheet with a piece of tin foil. Do not begin making biscuits until oven is pre-heated.



Add all the dry ingredients in a medium bowl and stir.

In a small bowl, shred the cheese. Sprinkle with one tablespoon of the flour mixture, carefully tossing with a fork to coat the cheese so it does not stick together. Reserve.

Using a pastry blender, cut in the lard (or shortening) and the butter until crumbly and flour bits are the size of small peas. Now fluff in the cheese mixture. Using a knife or fork, add the milk, using just enough until the dough leaves the side of the bowl. Turn onto a lightly floured surface and knead a few times to get dough to come together. Do not over knead. Gently pat 1/2-inch thick and cut into 2 - 2 1/2 inch circles. Gently re-pat scraps and cut again. Place biscuits on foil-lined sheet and bake 8-10 minutes, just until golden brown. Brush with melted butter immediately. Makes 5-6 biscuits.

While biscuits are traditionally served piping hot from the oven, I think the cheese flavor of these biscuits is more pronounced if served warm, even cold.