Pan-Seared Chicken Thighs with Garlic/Lemon Pasta

Make this ... and you will  be happy!

The pan sizzles. It sputters. It pops. My stomach grumbles. Beneath the lid, I know precisely what's going on. The chicken skin is caramelizing--rendering its fat to become bacon-crisp. The meat is being steamed, juicy and tender.

When "I want dinner and I want it NOW!" this is the recipe I turn to, sometimes twice a week. Pan-fried chicken thighs. A chicken thigh is still less than one dollar and offers a juicy, meaty cut of meat. Seasoned well and with the skin oh-so-ever crisp, I never tire of that first crunch when I bite into it.

Served with simple pasta and veggie, it's really a wonderful dinner any time of the year and done within 30 minutes. And in one pan ... and a lid! Easy clean up!

A lot of the fat (schmaltz) from the thigh will be left behind in the pan. That deep caramelization of the skin will intensify the actual taste of chicken, which is so often tasteless and bland. Season the underside any way you wish, but do not be stingy. And, as I always say with chicken, use thyme.

This technique is pure Jacques Pepin, best friend to Julia Child.

The pasta is simple enough and is actually my "everyday" pasta. In the summer, I throw in some fresh basil and cherry tomatoes. You can vary the cheese, too. Feta works well and, if you have them on hand, some Kalamata olives. You really can't screw it up. And it is only one more pan for clean up ...

• 2-4 skin-on, bone-in chicken thighs (I have only used two)
• Dried, savory seasonings of your choice (be very generous and think KFC and one hundred herbs and spices, but not hot and spicy unless that is what you prefer)
• 4-6 ounces spaghetti
• 1 garlic clove, pressed
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 2 teaspoons butter
• Lemon zest
• Salt and pepper
• Parsley for garnish

Using a sharp knife, cut along each side of the thigh bone being careful not to cut through to the skin on the other side. Scrape back the meat on the top of the bone. You just want to release the meat a bit from the bone so that it cooks evenly. The bone adds a lot of flavor. (I do this every time I cook thighs.)

Season liberally. Here are some seasonings I use: Bell's, Cavendar's, Old Bay, Montreal Chicken Spice, fines herbes, garlic and onion powder, smoked paprika, Aleppo pepper. But whatever I use, I always add a dried thyme flakes. Chicken and dried thyme just go together.

Place thighs in a cold non-stick skillet, skin side down, over medium-high heat. Do not add any oil of any kind. After a minute or so, move them around to make sure they are not sticking. When they begin to sizzle a bit, dial down the heat to low/medium. Cover. Cook for 16-18 minutes without turning. It's tough. You will want to fuss ...  Don't. 

The temperature will depend on your pan. If it's heavy, you can dial up a bit more than if it's thin. I have an electric stove, and I usually cook them around the number-4 mark. This may take some practice. Just do not flip them.

When done, give a quick turn to simply sear the bottom. Remove to a plate, cover, and allow to rest several minutes before serving. Save fat in pan to add to pasta.

Outdoor grilling can dry out a thigh
even though it gives a great crunch
and a bit of a burn. Here,
the temperature and cooking is controlled.

MAKE THE PASTA

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add a heaping tablespoon of salt. Add your pasta and partially cover the pot.  When it returns to a boil, reduce heat just a bit to prevent it from boiling over. Cook until done, about 7 minutes or so. I do not subscribe to "al dente" pasta. I like it cooked through and soft.

In a medium bowl, add your garlic, one tablespoon olive oil, 2 teaspoons butter and a good teaspoon of Kosher salt along with several grinds of pepper or Aleppo pepper for a bit more kick and flavor.

Remove a bit of water from pasta pot and reserve.

Drain pasta. Add to bowl with garlic mixture and toss. Add a bit of the 'schmaltz' or chicken fat from the pan to the pasta. Add several fine grates of lemon peel (not juice) and a generous handful of Parm/Reggiano cheese. Taste for salt. Add some chopped parsley. If you don't have any, chop up some celery leaves to add.

If your pasta is done before your chicken, add a bit of the pasta water before serving to loosen it up. Don't be afraid to add a drizzle of olive oil over pasta when plated.

Notes: One day I will make a wonderful sauce from remnants of the chicken pan. You might want to give it a try.

Olive Oil Cake with Citrus and Amaretto

I really like this cake. I've had the recipe forever and don't even remember where I got it. But ever since I saw an olive oil cake on 101 Cookbooks I was intrigued.

Did someone say a SUNNY recipe? I love European butter for cooking.
It's not as oily and the cows are grass-fed.

But, honestly, I made this with trepidation. I shy away from breads and cakes with a ton of oil because, well, that's usually what they end up tasting like. But the citrus and the liquor cut down on the "greasiness" here. I also subbed some of the olive oil with melted butter to give an added richness. And I added lemon zest. Be sure to use a quality extra-virgin olive oil, one that is fruity if possible. I used Colavita.

To me, this is an "adult cake." It's not overly sweet and has a mature, moist crumb. The citrus lingers on the palate and the Amaretto is a subtle blend. The edges have a nice crust that works well with the stone-ground corn meal. These would be killer muffins. I could also see adding poppy seeds to the batter.

The batter is very thin and I had to go back to the recipe to make sure I hadn't added too much milk. In the oven, it had a beautiful rise. I baked mine in a convection oven at 340 F degrees for about 45 minutes. Be sure to use parchment on the bottom of the pan.

• 3 large eggs
• 1 cup granulated sugar
• 1 1/2 cups whole milk
• 3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 1/3 cup butter, melted
• 1/4 cup amaretto liqueur
• 1 tablespoon, packed, citrus zest from one orange and one lemon
• 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
• 1/2 cup coarse-ground cornmeal (I used Red Mill stone ground)
• 3/4 teaspoon baking powder
• 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
• Dash of salt

Heat oven to 350 F degrees. Spray/butter/grease a 9-inch cake pan. Cut a round of parchment paper to fit in the bottom. Place in bottom and spray/butter/grease that, too. 

In a medium bowl, stir the flour, cornmeal, baking powder and baking soda. Add the zest and, using your fingers, gently work it into the flour. 

In a large bowl beat eggs and sugar until light and sugar has dissolved. About 2 minutes. Add milk, olive oil, and amaretto. Blend.

Add dry ingredients to wet stirring/whisking just until blended. Batter will be thin. Some lumps are okay. Don't over mix.

Pour batter into prepared pan. Bake until top is brown and set and a toothpick inserted into center comes out clean, about 40-50 minutes. Remove from oven. Allow to rest 15-20 minutes. Run a knife around edge of pan to loosen. Turn onto rack then place another rack on bottom and flip so it is now right-side up. Allow to cool completely.

This cake has color and texture from the cornmeal.

When cake has cooled, dust with confectioners' sugar. Cut into wedges to serve.

Notes: The original recipe said to allow it cool completely in the pan before removing, but that always makes me a bit nervous. Next time I might add a few drops of almond oil to boost its flavor. My orange was really big, so you may need two. Don't use the zest from an old orange--it's dry and bitter.

Pasta with Lemon

Buttery, slippery, garlicky, salty--that's how I like my pasta. Liberal shaves of a great Parmesan and almost always a few grates of fresh lemon zest. Sometimes a pinch of red pepper flakes. The recipe below combines all those ingredients, but ramps up the lemon for a flavorful pasta to welcome spring.

This is based on a Cook's Illustrated recipe. I added the garlic, red pepper flakes and upped the butter. Butter always adds a richness to pasta dishes. Use a quality cheese and salt. If using sea salt, go easy and add gradually. I usually use kosher salt. This wonderful paired with a supermarket rotisserie chicken for a quick weeknight dinner or weekend summer picnic.

(Serves 2-4)

• 8 oz. quality spaghetti
• 2-4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 1 tablespoon butter (I used Plugra)
• 2 tablespoons minced shallot
• 1 small garlic clove, pressed
• 2 tablespoons cream (or sour cream)
• 1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
• 2 tablespoons lemon juice
• 1/2 cup grated Parmesan (I used Grana Padano)
• Red pepper flakes, just a pinch or two
• 8 basil leaves, shredded, plus more for garnish
• Salt and pepper

Bring a large pot of salted water to boil. Add pasta and cook until done, reserve one cup of the pasta water before draining.

Add about one tablespoon olive oil to the pasta pan and add the minced shallot and red pepper flakes. Cook for about 2 minutes being careful it doesn't burn. 

Remove pan from heat and add 3/4 cup of the pasta water and 2 tablespoons of the cream. Bring to a simmer and allow to cook for about 2 minutes.

Return the pasta to the pot and stir until coated with the sauce. Stir in another 1-2 tablespoons of olive oil, the butter, lemon zest, lemon juice, about half the cheese, garlic and salt and pepper to taste.

Cover and allow to rest several minutes. If necessary, add a bit more of the pasta water, butter and/or olive oil. Don't be afraid to add more cheese. Stir in basil leaves. Taste for salt.

Drizzle individual portions with a bit more olive oil and sprinkle with grated cheese.

A bowl of leftover pasta such as this makes for a great lunch. It's easily warmed in the mircrowave. The longer this sat, the better it got!

(Notes: If you want a more mild flavor to the garlic, add it to the shallot mixture just before adding the liquid.)

Chocolate Whiskey Cake

Use "Irish whiskey" for a great St. Patty's day dessert.

Sometimes I debate to post a recipe. This one is from Melissa Clark who writes a food column for the New York Times. It went together easy enough. I added black walnuts because, well, the earthy smokiness of whiskey just seems to go with them. It was a great addition.

But I thought the cake a bit on "bitter side." Maybe it was the combination of coffee and bitter chocolate? A good sprinkle of powdered sugar certainly helped. Still . . . So I bought most of it to work and most people loved it (what do I know?).

A day or two later I spied what was left on the platter and cut myself a piece to go with my coffee. Ta-da! It was a different cake. It just needed a day or two to breathe and to "mellow" out and for all those strong flavors to come together. So that's what I recommend. After brushing the cake with whiskey, wrap it and allow to sit for a day or two. Then sprinkle with powdered sugar, cut and serve.

I made a half recipe and baked it in the recommended 9-inch loaf pan. I felt the pan too big for that amount of batter. The cake itself has a very light and tender crumb. Served without the powdered sugar but a dollop of soft vanilla ice cream would be ideal, too. Below is the full recipe.

• 1 cup unsalted butter
• 2 cups all-purpose flour
• 5 ounces unsweetened chocolate
• 1/4 cup instant espresso powder
• 2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder
• 1 cup bourbon, rye or other whiskey, more for brushing on finished cake
• 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
• 2 cups granulated sugar
• 3 large eggs
• 1 tablespoon vanilla extract
• 1 teaspoon baking soda
• 1/2 cup roughly chopped black walnuts (optional but recommended)
• Confectioners's sugar, for garnish (optional)

Grease and flour or spray a 10-inch Bundt pan (or two 8- or 9- inch loaf pans). Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Melt chocolate in microwave or over double boiler. Allow to cool. Using a bit of flour or cocoa powder, powder your nuts (and trust me, here in the South during the summer, I do). This will prevent them from sinking to the bottom while baking.

Put espresso and cocoa powders in a 2-cup (or larger) glass measuring cup. Add enough boiling water to come up to the 1 cup measuring line. Mix until powders dissolve. Add whiskey and salt. Cool.

Using an electric mixer, beat 1 cup butter until fluffy. And sugar and beat until well combined. Beat in eggs one at a time, beating well between each addition.

Mix in vanilla extract, baking soda and melted chocolate, scraping down sides of bowl with a rubber spatula.

On low speed, mix in one-third of the whiskey mixture. When liquid is absorbed, beat in 1 cup of flour. Repeat additions ending with whiskey mixture.

Oh, gosh! Just let me swim in it!

Carefully fold in powdered nuts. Scrape batter into prepared pan and smooth top. Bake until a cake tester inserted into center of cake comes out clean, about 1 hour 10 minutes for Bundt pan (loaf pans will take less time, start checking after 55 minutes.)

Remove from oven and allow to sit for 15 minutes. Brush warm cake with more whiskey. Allow to cool. Wrap in foil or waxed paper and allow to sit for 1-2 days. Unwrap and sprinkle with confectioner's sugar.