Wednesday, October 11, 2023

3- Legged Chicken Soup (Small Batch)

The older I get, the more I appreciate soups. 

They are nutritious, fun to make, usually inexpensive, and a great excuse to clean out your fridge.

Chicken soup if my favorite to eat, but not my favorite to make because of the clean-up. It usually involves many large bowls, sieves, utensils, picking through the meat and leftover bones and deflated veggies, not to mention peels and greasy counters and kitchen items.

So, I've been making this small-batch recipe that pushed all the bells and whistles of my desires and tastes: good soup, easy clean-up.

It uses the cheapest of chicken parts: legs (thighs also work, or a combo thereof). Where I shop, I have access to a 3-pack of organic chicken quarters. Rarely are they more than 4 bucks, a real bargain. I'm usually after the thighs, so, after cutting them off, I'm left with three legs. That's when I started making this soup.

I put them in a two-quart saucepan along with some veggies and let it simmer for several hours. It fills my apartment with incredible aromas I can actually inhale if I'm outside on my porch. There's really only one bone in a leg or thigh, and after several hours of simmering, the meat literally falls off the bone, so it's easy to fish out for easy removal without a sieve. The same with the veggies. 

If the strength of the broth is too weak, I add a good tablespoon of chicken Better than Bouillon. That is the ONLY brand I will use. 

I usually have the meat with the "pot gravy" for one meal then save the broth for another. For breakfast, nothing is better (or healthier) than warm broth.

When all is said and done, I basically just have a single pan to wash. That's it. EZ-PZ.

My favorite way to enjoy broth is with a tiny squeeze of lemon or thin slice of peel, dried dill, and just a pinch of Cayenne or Aleppo pepper. 

Do use thyme. Feel free to use other herbs, but thyme is traditional and, in my opinion, should always be used with any chicken recipe. Dill is also nice, but add at the end, not the beginning. The same with rosemary. People just love to use rosemary when making soup. It's a bad idea.  It can easily bitter and overpower your broth. Use at the very end just until your broth is flavored. For roast chicken, use all you want when you want. 

A few notes: If I want a hearty soup, I add 1-2 nests of pappardelle noodles when the soup is done.  I simply remove the pan from the burner and but in the balls of noodles, cover the pot and leave it for an hour or so during which time the noodles will lovingly swell with the flavorful broth and unfurl for real-life slurping. These are LONG noodles, hence the reason they are wrapped into a ball-like nest. Buy a good brand. You'll never go back to regular noodles. (Great for beef stews, too!)

  • 3-4 chicken legs. If small, add one or two more and/or a thigh, but you may need a larger pot.
  • 1 large carrot, cleaned, sliced lengthwise, than into 2-3 inch lengths, or simply cut into medium rounds
  • 1 rib celery, roughly chopped or, into medium slices if you like it with your soup
  • 1/2 medium onion, roughly chopped
  • 1 large garlic clove, smashed, peeled, cut into a few pieces
  • 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
  • 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme flakes (or a few fresh thyme stems with leaves)
  • If you have it, a few stems fresh parsley
  • If using, one or two nests pappardelle pasta (bronze cut)
  • Kosher salt-but only at the very end
  • Chicken Better-than-Bouillion, if desired 
  • 4 cups water
Wash chicken well. Place in pot. Add vegetables. Add water. Bring just to a boil. Reduce to simmer and cook for a good two hours. Never boil your soup stock. It will cloud the broth and create a lot of scum that floats to the top. A slow simmer is all you need.

When done, taste, season with salt. Add one or two nests of pappardelle noodles. Remove from burner and allow to sit until noodles have doubled in size and are tender.
Taste again for salt and pepper.

To serve, spoon meat portions into a bowl along with some of the veggies. Add noodles. If you have it, a flurry of minced parsley is always nice.

This is plenty for a hearty two servings. For one person, you will have left overs. Simply cover the pot until cool, and place in fridge. It will keep for a few days.


Sunday, October 1, 2023

Grilled Pork Tenderloin with Lime and Ginger Marinade

And ... just like that ... summer disappeared.

In its stead, we are left with a few tomatoes lingering on withering vines. Maybe some stubborn green peppers. Marigolds are wonderfully bushy--even voluptuous, gorgeous, providing camouflage for monarch butterflies who pin themselves to their gowns like broaches.

 But, for the most part, the garden is done. Floral and veggie.

It's all about big-ass bounty. No-nonsense pumpkins. Grenade gourds. Chrysanthemum explosions.

We head indoors to decorate and to garden new recipes. 

Recipes that are a bit hardier. Substantial. Less light.  -burgs and -dogs on the grill wing it South like snowbirds.

Hence,  this recipe.

I have had this particular recipe since the late 90's when it was quite the hit, a child of the now sadly-defunct magazine "Gourmet." The Internet picked it up, in particular, the then-newbie and popular "Epicurious

I made it often, particularly in the summer ... But then I ended up in North Carolina where grills are not allowed in apartment complexes. I tried it without, but you do really need one. Even in the dead of winter.

I had thought this was on my blog but discovered I had mistakenly erased it. I have another pork tenderloin recipe and both begin with the word "marinated." I haphazardly must of nuked this one. I apologize to all who would have tried it. Loved it. Now is your chance.

Don't be put off by the combination of lime and ginger. It's wonderful. 

Please note: this calls for a pork tenderloin, not a loin. Those are two separate cuts of meat. 

I have never felt inclined to make the marmalade. It's up to you  . . . Serve with rice* and a fresh, green veggie such as asparagus or broccolini. Also great with grilled pineapple slices.

I usually half this recipe. Be sure to taste the marinade. I like to be able taste the lime. Some people add a bit of honey or sugar. I never have.

  • 6 large garlic cloves, chopped
  • 2 tablespoons soy sauce
  • 2 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
  • 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
  • 1/3 cup fresh lime juice
  • 1/2 cup olive oil
  • Cayenne to taste (I use Aleppo pepper)
  • 4 pork tenderloins, about 3/4 pound each, trimmed of silver skin and flabby parts. If they have a long "tail," I fold it over and secure with a toothpick. Or just cut it off to make a uniform loin.

To make the marinade: 

In a blender, or small food processor, blend marinade ingredients with  salt and pepper to taste. I like to be able to taste the lime.

In a large, sealable plastic bag, combine pork with marinade. Seal bag, pressing out excess air, and put in a shallow baking dish or on a plate to catch any leakage. Marinate pork, chilled, turning occasionally, at least one day--I've kept it up to two days.

Prepare grill.

Let pork stand at room temperature about 30 minutes before grilling. Remove from marinade, letting excess drip off, and grill on an oiled rack set 5-6 inches over glowing coals, turning every 5 minutes, until a meat thermometer register 160 F, 15-20 minutes. (I prefer 140-145 with just a bit of a blush in the center.)

Transfer meat to a cutting board and let stand 5-10 minutes. Slicing is individual preference and depends on the number of people you are serving. They recommend 1/2-inch slices. I don't really like thick slices or "chunks." You do you.

Marmalade: Warning, lots of stirring . . .

I have never made the marmalade, so I can't really vouch for it one way or another.

  • 1 1/4 lbs. yellow or red onions, chopped fine (about 4 cups)
  • 3 tablespoons olive oil
  • 2 fresh jalapeƱo chilies, seeded and minced (wear rubber gloves
  • 2 tablespoons honey or sugar
  • 3-4 tablespoons red-wine vinegar
  • 1/4 water

In a large, heavy skillet, cook onions in oil with salt and pepper to taste over medium heat, stirring, until softened. Add JalapeƱos and cook, stirring, one minute. Add honey or sugar and cook, stirring, one minute. Add vinegar and simmer, stirring, until almost all liquid is evaporated. Add water and simmer, stirring, until mixture is slightly thickened and onions are very tender, about ten minutes. Season marmalade with salt and pepper. Maybe made two days ahead and shilled, covered. Reheat before serving.

*If you have access to Stonewall Kitchen products, I highly recommend their Citrus Rosemary Sauce to use with the plain white rice. It has a "pineapple" vibe and it's something I mostly always keep on hand because it is so versatile.