Thursday, July 1, 2021

Better Pancakes Made from a Packaged Mix


 

It isn't officially summer until I make my first blueberry pancakes. It's a kind of ceremony where I pay homage to the nostalgic ritual of summer vacations of the1950s-1960s when my family and a zillion others traveled the newly-built expressways. We departed from Indiana to Long Island, New York to visit the paternal side of the family. Oh, what excitement and fun! And all along the way Howard Johnson's were there to greet us with ice cream and breakfasts of blueberry pancakes washed down with hot chocolate and afternoon platters of hamburgers or hot dogs with french fries.

Those places were always busy and for young children they were fraught with amusement and exploring. Like the neighborhoods of that incredible era, every Howard Johnson was packed with children. Each one had a gift shop unique to its geographical terrain. And lots of exciting maps. And souvenirs marketed for children. It was like Christmas! 

They were simpler times, back then, for sure. Everyone was on their best behavior--unless my dad made a wrong turn, got lost, and had to turn around. Once, he broke his sunglasses in two and threw them out the car window. Still, how exciting was that? It is now an indelible part of our family history.

 
At its peak, Howard Johnson's had more than 1,000 locations across the country that outsold McDonald's, Burger King, and Kentucky Fried Chicken combined! It was one of the first "chains" to use unique architecture-inspired branding. It relied on a traditional Early-American Georgian style. The artsy orange roof and turquoise spire beckoned and welcomed weary-hungry travelers.


Here's something you may not have known about the ubiquitous Howard Johnson restaurant/hotel chain back then. Famed chef Jacques Pepin turned down a presidential request to be head chef at the White House under the Kennedy administration. Instead, he chose the top position at Howard Johnson to develop an American menu. And what an incredible job he did! Today, blueberry pancakes are as American as apple pie. And fried clams! Indeed, the iconic Howard Johnson logo is a chef offering a stack of pancakes to a small boy and his dog.

It's fun to make pancakes from scratch, and pretty easy. But it is even easier to buy a premixed box and go from there. I used to buy Aunt Jemima, but now that it has gone all "woke" and scrubbed her beautiful face from the box, I have moved on. My regret is that I do not buy Land O'Lakes Butter so I can boycott it, too, for scrubbing the image of that beautiful Native American. ("C'mon, man!") I use President brand from France for eating and Plugra brand for cooking.

Really, there are dozens of mixes from which to choose. Some are quite gourmet with a price to match. My only complaint from many is the predominant phony taste of artificial vanilla. Even Aunt Jemima has succumbed. They taste like pancakes from McDonald's.

Anyway, I picked up a box of "Krustease" buttermilk pancake mix. It was dirt cheap! I didn't care for the name because it reminds me of Krusty the clown from The Simpsons. But it has a great history going back to the Depression. A one-pound box was only around two bucks and what drew me were the easy directions and the ability to make as few as I wanted, not as many as I would like.

I have fooled around with pancake and waffle mixes before. It is so easy to add flavorings that ramp things up. 

For my first batch, I made as directed. They were quite good. Fluffy, light and absent of any phony vanilla taste, and they did a great job of sopping up the maple syrup. Real maple syrup, thank you very much.

For the next batch, I added a bit of vanilla extract and just a bit of almond flavoring. Kaboom! With maple syrup, it was wonderful combination.

But then I upped it. I add the blueberries and I was in pancake heaven! There is no going back! They were sublime and absolutely delicious with each little bit of blueberry explosion. Later, I added some lemon zest. Delicious. Complex yet so simple.

I urge you to give them a try and try your own combination of extracts. You could do citrus with lemon and orange extracts. You could go all Canadian with a bit of rum and maple and butter flavoring. 

 

Makes about 7 nice-sized pancakes:

  • 1 cup Krusteaze Buttermilk Complete Pancake Mix
  • 1/4 teaspoon vanilla and almond extract combined (1/16 each)
  • 2/3 cup water
  • a few scratches of fresh lemon zest (optional, but worth it!)

Add dry mix to a small bowl. Add extracts to a 1/3-cup measure. Fill with water, add to mix. Add the other 1/3 cup of water. Stir just to dissolve everything. You want lumps! Add about a handful of fresh blueberries--about 24. Allow to sit as you heat your pan.

Heat a non-stick skillet. Add a bit of oil of your choice (I use bacon grease) and, when melted, swirl around with a bit of paper towel. You don't need much. Pour in about 1/4 cup or less of your batter. If you are hesitant about flipping pancakes, do not crowd the pan.

Now, here's the secret to know when to flip. Yes, the edges will get bubbly. But that is not the time. Look at the wet "sheen" on the top of the pancake. Do not flip until that sheen dulls and becomes opaque. Than, and only then, flip. Why? When the top dulls, most of the moisture has evaporated from the pancake and it is less likely to fall apart.


If desired, keep warm on rack placed on top of cookie sheet at about 200 F. But don't keep in there too long or they will dry out.

Spread with non-woke butter. My method is to cut them all up and then drizzle with maple syrup so all the pieces are coated. 

Have a great vacation and order a great breakfast!




 

 





Wednesday, January 27, 2021

French Apple Cake with Lemon Topping

A no-nonsense pure apple flavor with a clean, lemony finish. 
 

So I made this cake on a Monday. I brought most of it to work on Tuesday. When I woke on Wednesday,  I was consumed with baker's remorse. I wanted more!


This recipe is from Joel over at Recipe30 on You Tube. After researching dozens of French apple cakes, I settled on his because I was intrigued by the unique lemon topping. Neither it, nor the cake, disappointed.

Recipes are like people. I am drawn to the quirky. The unusual. The different mix of ingredients. Usually, I am surprised and happy. This was no exception.

Keep your apples in chunks--not slices. As with any oil-based cake, make sure your oil is fresh, not old. It should have a neutral scent. Oil-based cakes are almost always moist opposed to butter-based cakes. Why? Oil has no water. Butter does and it evaporates as it bakes.

One aspect I love about European apple recipes is that they often do not call for cinnamon or nutmeg; instead, they rely on the quality and taste of the apple itself to take center stage. Here, I used two Honey Crisp and one Golden Delicious. Be sure they are firm, not soft.

When I first journeyed to Europe as a youth, I loved all the apple recipes. I was surprised they were not over-scented with cinnamon. Usually, they had mild flavors, such as honey and almond. Boy, Amsterdam had some of the best apple desserts I ever tasted. 

 

My only deviation from the recipe was to add a bit of additional flavor that complemented the lemon topping: vanilla, rum, almond. Use drops, not measured spoonfuls. Mix and taste as you go. Don't get carried away. Less is more.

This is a very moist cake. Don't bother sifting with confectioner's sugar unless it is at the very last minute before serving, otherwise it will just dissolve. Do not insult this cake with ice cream. Real, fresh, whipped cream? Good choice. But if you really want to gild the lily, I would suggest a Sauce Anglaise. Spectacular and over the top!

I did weigh my ingredients as opposed to measuring. You should, too!

 

 BATTER:

  • 13 ounces apple chunks (3.5-4.0 cups)
  • 150 grams all purpose flour (1 cup)
  • 130 grams white sugar (2/3 cup)
  • 12 grams baking powder (1 tablespoon)
  • 60 grams oil (1/3 cup)
  • 100 grams milk (a little less than one cup)
  • pinch or two of table salt
  • 2 eggs
  • 1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract and then 3-5 drops each rum extract and almond extract

TOPPING:

  • 1 whole egg
  • 80g melted butter (4 tablespoons) a bit on the cool side
  • 100g sugar (about 1/2 cup
  • Zest of one medium lemon
  •  

Butter and flour a round 9-inch baking pan or dish. Have ingredients at room temperature.

Peel apples. Slice in half. Remove seeds and stem center. Slice each half into fourths. Then dice each wedge cross-wise into three chunks. Reserve.

Pre-heat oven to 340 degrees F. (170C)

In a medium mixing bowl, add the dry cake ingredients. Blend. Now add the 2 eggs, oil, milk and, using a whisk, stir just until smooth and no lumps remain. Add your flavorings drip by drip, tasting as you go.

Pour into your buttered pan/dish.

Tumble apple chunks evenly over the batter.

Bake for 30 minutes.


Make the topping:

Measure the sugar into a small bowl. Add the lemon zest. Using your fingers, incorporate into the sugar.

Beat in the melted butter until incorporated and cool. Add the egg. Beat with a whisk until well combined.

After 30 minutes, remove cake from oven. Using a toothpick or wooden skewer, insert into center of cake. Removed, it should be dry without any batter. This is important since the topping is wet and you want the base well baked to support it. If it is not, bake a bit longer until done.

When cake is baked in the center, carefully distribute the lemon custard over the top extending to edges of the pan. 

Re-insert into the oven and bake for an additional 12 minutes.

Remove cake from oven and allow to sit on a wire rack for a good 10-15 minutes. 

Run a knife around the edge to loosen. Place a wire rack on top of cake and flip to release from the pan.

Using another wire rack, re-flip right side up. Allow to cool before placing on your serving dish. Slice into diagonals. 


Here is the link to the original recipe and Joel's great website:

http://www.recipe30.com/french-apple-cake.html/