Wednesday, April 4, 2012

Tibetan Flatbread (Skillet Bread)





I approached this recipe with apprehension. Even trepidation. "Bread" from just flour and water? It was just too easy. 

I had learned my lesson in 2006 from the "no-knead" bread recipe that appeared in the New York Times which "minimalist" Mark Bittman praised. It was all the rage. Because I love bread and make it often, people E-mailed me that recipe and article. I literally dove into it.

Unfortunately, I was more disappointed than impressed. It tasted like . . . well . . . flour and water. And then I thought . . . what the hell? What is so wrong with a bit of yeast, kneading and waiting?

Our lives are spent kneading and waiting. Right? It defines us.

So, along comes Jacques Pepin talking about a bread you make in a pan. Mon Dieu! What would his best friend Julia Child think?

Well, I copied the recipe . . . but couldn't quite bring myself to make it . . . until I was out of bread. I just have to have bread and toast for breakfast. Period. It is my understanding that this bread is correctly identified as "Tibetan Flat Bread." There is nothing "flat" about this bread.

Wow! Okay. Drum rolls, please.

BANG!

KA-BOOM!

FIREWORKS!

I have now made this four times in two weeks. And each time I savor each and every bite. 

This is all about the olive oil. Yeast gives bread flavor. In the no-knead recipe, there was no flavor. But here, the olive oil takes over without being overpowering. Use a quality extra-virgin olive oil. So far, I've only used all-pupose white flour. Soon I'll experiment by adding other grained flours, such as rye or spelt. Even herbs and seeds. Maybe some sugar.

The combination of steaming and frying gives this bread a tooth-satisfying, chewy-yet-crunchy texture. The edges are bliss! It's somewhere between a biscuit, English muffin, pretzel and Focaccia. And it keeps well. It also toasts beautifully. I've made thin slices to dunk into marinara sauces. Oh, my! Split it to make wonderful sandwiches! Just make it!

You may need to play around with this the first few times you make it. Much will depend on your flour, stove settings, and your pan.


  • 1.5 cups all-purpose flour
  • 1/2 - 1 teaspoon table salt
  • 1.5 - 2 teaspoons baking powder
  • 1 cup water
  • 1.5 - 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1.5 - 2 tablespoons water
  • 1, 8 or 8.5-inch non-stick skillet
In a medium bowl, whisk the flour, salt and baking powder. Add the water. Mix until well-blended. It will kind of look like a thick pancake batter. You may need to add a bit more water.

Coat the bottom of a COLD skillet with the olive oil. Pour the batter/dough into it. Wet your hands with water and pat the batter to the sides keeping it round and neat. Do not pat oil on top.



Drizzle the water around the perimeter/outside edge of the pan. Turn heat to medium/medium high. As soon as the water/oil mixture at the edge of the pan begins to sizzle and bubble, COVER. Lower heat a bit. Steam/cook for ten minutes.




(The first time I made this, I was kind of alarmed by the amount of oil and water. Don't be. The bread will absorb it. It's what you want.)

After ten minutes, the bread will have risen. 



Flip. The underside will have turned golden brown and absorbed the olive oil and water.




Loosen edges and flip. Cover. Cook for an additional five minutes. The flip-side will not be as pretty.




Remove from pan and allow to cool ten minutes on a rack before slicing. Because the "crust" is "chewy" kitchen shears or a sharp pizza wheel make easy work of cutting.



















Sunday, April 1, 2012

Spring Lasagna with Asparagus & Mushrooms



Asparagus lasagna is a joyous welcome to celebrate spring and the end of winter. Tender new spears of asparagus and earthy mushrooms sing the praises of a long-anticipated thaw. I could certainly see it on an Easter menu, especially as an appetizer.

I paired this lasagna with simple, pan-seared shrimp with lemon and a bit of jalapeno.

I had planned to layer this with shrimp. But at the last minute, I backed out and chose shredded pieces of ham, instead. It was a smart move. The ham, together with the smoked mozzarella, worked wonders with the other ingredients. 

And, no, there is no easy way to prepare it. There's a lot of chopping. Mixing. Layering. Grating. But you can always do the chopping the day before which just seems to make things go easier. In fact, you can prepare the entire dish the day before and refrigerate until ready to bake. 

Traditionally, the asparagus is quick-blanched then dunked into an ice-bath until ready to use. Because my spears were pencil thin, I didn't bother. Had they been thicker, I probably would have split them lengthwise. You may, of course, chop them; I like the drama of the entire stem. It's your call.




Please do not omit the smoked mozzarella. I used a pre-packaged blend of shredded Italian cheeses to layer between the pasta. In the bechamel sauce, I used fresh-grated Grana Padano.

I used leeks with the mushrooms (and a bit of shallots)  only because I had them on hand. If you don't have them, just increase the shallots to 1/4 cup. I used Barilla no-bake lasagna noodles. Just be sure to soak them in hot water before using. I like them much more than the frilly ones.

I generally remove and discard mushroom stems. When using deli ham
for cooking, choose something like "ham off the bone"
which has some fat to it.

  • 1/2 lb. fresh asparagus, trimmed (the weight is after the trimming)
  • 1 tablespoon chopped shallots
  • 1/3-1/2 cup chopped leeks
  • 1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
  • 2-3 cups sliced mushrooms (I used Baby Bellas--one 8 oz. container)
  • 2-4 slices deli ham (I use ham-off-the-bone)
  • 3/4 cup shredded smoked mozzarella
  • 1 cup mixed Italian cheese
  • 1/2 package Barilla No-Cook Lasagna Noodles
  • Salt and pepper to taste
Bechamel Sauce
  • 1/4 cup butter
  • 1/4 cup all-purpose flour
  • 1/4 cup finely chopped shallots
  • 1-2 medium garlic gloves, pressed
  • 1 cup whole milk
  • 1 cup low-sodium chicken stock
  • 1/2 cup grated Parmesan
  • Grated nutmeg

Lightly oil a 10 x 7 baking dish. Set aside. Preheat oven to 350 F degrees.

Wash and cut asparagus to fit pan. Place upright in a glass or small bowl to drain.

In a medium frying pan, add a bit of olive oil. When hot, add the mushrooms. Stir until they begin to wilt and give up their juices. Then add the leeks and one tablespoon chopped shallot. Add the thyme. Cook until tender. Salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.




Place the pasta sheets in a pan of hot tap water while you prepare the sauce. A bread pan works perfectly.

In a medium pan, add the butter and cook over medium heat until melted. Add the shallot and garlic and cook just until tender being careful not to scorch them. Reduce heat if necessary.

Add the 1/4 cup flour and stir, cooking over low medium heat for several minutes. You want to "cook" the flour a bit without burning it or the shallots and garlic. When it turns "nutty," begin adding the milk in 1/3 cups, whisking well after each addition.

Add chicken stock 1/3 cup at a time. Continue to cook until thickened. Lower heat and allow to simmer for several minutes.

Add several grates of fresh nutmeg. Whisk and taste. Now add the cheese a little at a time and whisk until melted and incorporated. Remove from heat. Reserve one-half cup of the sauce.

Remove lasagna noodles from pan and, if necessary, cut to fit your lasagna pan.

Smear a thin layer of the sauce (just a couple of tablespoons) on the bottom of your pan. Cover with one layer of lasagna noodles. Cover that with 1/3 of the remaining sauce. Sprinkle one-third of your mushroom mixture over that. Arrange 1/3 of your asparagus over the mushrooms and sprinkle with 1/4 cup of the smoked mozzarella and about 1/3 cup of the mixed Italian cheeses. Shred the ham over all.




Adding more cheese will not make your lasagna better.
It will only make it oily and greasy. Go light.

Repeat two more times ending with a top layer of lasagna. Spread that with the reserved 1/2 cup of sauce. Sprinkle with remaining cheese.







Cover with greased foil and bake in a 350 F oven for 30-35 minutes. Remove cover and increase heat to 500 F and bake just until the top in golden brown.


Allow to cool 20 - 30 minutes before cutting. It needs this time for the pasta to absorb the cheese and the juices, otherwise you will have slices that are a runny mess.



Notes: I really debated to place asparagus on the top of the lasagna but decided against it. I really only wanted to do it for visual pizzazz. In the long-run, I figured they'd just get mushy and I prefer a golden-brown top. As soon as this came out of the oven, I put on some fresh oregano sprigs from the garden. Next time I'll put on more.

If your bechamel sauce begins to thicken, don't be afraid to add a bit more milk or stock.





Thursday, March 29, 2012

Banana Bread with Brandy, Maple and Chocolate



Bananas and I don't quite get along. I mean, we're friendly and all. But I have traumatic childhood memories. You see, my mother loved bananas. And banana cake. I hated it. But that's what I usually got for my birthday. A banana cake, for heaven's sake! With vanilla icing. When I blew out the candles my wish was to blow away the cake, too.

All I wanted was what any normal kid wanted: chocolate. And lots of it.

It wasn't until I turned ten-years-old that I finally got a decent cake (not that my mother isn't a great cook because she is). 

When I turned ten, I got a genuine bakery cake (no, not as in supermarket bakery--they had not yet been "invented';" this was a REAL bakery). And it was a CHOCOLATE cake! It was decorated with the things I usually carried home as a young boy. Small rocks. Snakes. Frogs. (Plastic, of course--except for the stones.) And, spelled in frosting script, "Happy Birthday Gary."

This was the first bakery in our small 1950's-kind-of town. My mom was ecstatic, not only because she didn't have to bake, but because of the creativity of the final product! I still remember her phoning neighbors and friends to describe this cake. I was special. Screw bananas! My Grandma was there when I blew out those candles. Her gift was not a wrapped present at all. It was a card. And inside was a check for "ten" dollars. My first check! I was sooooo grown up.






To me, "corporate" bananas are a bit sour and the texture is kind of like sucking toothpaste out of a tube. In fact, as a child, I once bit into a banana only to have a baby tooth dislodged.

When I was 19-years-old, I camped throughout East Africa. And I lived on . . . of all things, bananas! (In Swahili [the second most beautiful language next to French] the word is pronounced "bah-nah-nah). But those bananas were like eating vanilla ice cream and nothing like the sad clones sold in supermarkets today under the guise of Chiquita and Dole. And often green, green, green.

Oh, well.

So, I made this bread. Not sure why. 

But, to be safe, I added booze. Maple flavoring. And chocolate. Should have added more maple.

This is a very moist cake. And like any cake or bread with alcohol, it's better served a day or two later . . . But, of course, who can wait?


Use ripened bananas as pictured above. I don't recommend the "freezing" method of bananas. It may make they "squishy" but that's all. By the time bananas reach the blackened stage, they have produced a lot more sugar and taste which is what makes them so appropriate as an ingredient for baking.



  • 1.5 cups flour
  • 2/3 cup light brown sugar
  • 1/3 cup white sugar
  • 1 egg
  • 2-3 ripened bananas (one heaping cup, mashed)
  • 1/2 cup fat - either all butter, half butter half shortening, or half butter half lard (I used the butter and lard)
  • 1 heaping tablespoon mayonnaise
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
  • 1/8 - 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
  • 1/2 cup bittersweet chocolate, roughly cut (use a good chocolate)
  • 3-4 tablespoons brandy
  • 1/2 teaspoon vanilla
  • 1/2 teaspoon maple flavoring, added 1/4 teaspoon at a time



Mash bananas and add the brandy. Mix. Add maple flavoring 1/4 teaspoon at a time until you get a flavor/blend you like. Add the vanilla. Allow to sit for at least one hour.




Preheat oven to 350 F degrees. Grease/spray a 9 x 5 bread pan. Cut a piece of parchment paper or waxed paper to fit into the bottom. Grease/spray that, too.


Measure your flour, salt, cinnamon, and baking powder. Set aside. Rough chop your chocolate.


In a medium bowl, add the brown and white sugar with the fat. Using a hand-held electric mixer, beat for three minutes. Add the egg and blend well.


Add the banana mixture and gently mix to incorporate. Mix in the one tablespoon mayonnaise and blend well.


Add the dry ingredients and mix by hand with a wooden spoon or spatula just until streaks of flour disappear. Add the chocolate and stir just until incorporated.








Spoon into pan and bake for 50-60 minutes or until an inserted toothpick comes out clean. 




Allow to rest in pan for 15-20 minutes before removing and cool completely before cutting.








Notes: I used a convection oven set at 340 F degrees and baked mine for 55 minutes. These would great as cupcakes, just vary the baking time.

Tuesday, March 20, 2012

Bacon-Infused Pasta, Jalapeno Cream Sauce & Chicken



Did I have you at "bacon?" Or maybe it was that word 'infused." What a lovely thought: a bacon infusion. Someone call 9-1-1! Surely, a cure for anything!

As you may notice, I've been on a pasta kick lately (and I still have brandy pasta to come). It's just so easy to prepare and a meal in-and-of itself. I really had planned to add a handful of frozen peas to this recipe, but they were nowhere to be found in my freezer. And, yes, I used canned mushrooms, not fresh. I have no quarrel with canned mushrooms. For one thing, they keep their shape when cooked. Second, I make judicious use of the juice (how's that for a rhyme?). Never throw it out. If you have fresh on hand, by all means add them and sub chicken stock for the mushroom liquid.

The chicken in this recipe really serves as an afterthought: it's merely the "designated driver" for the intoxicating bacon. And, really, there isn't that much bacon. As usual, I trim most of my bacon before frying. Adding a piece of bacon to the pasta water steers the taste to a new direction. But it all arrives home safe-and-sound with the cream sauce and jalapeno. The sauce is not meant to be hot or spicy. It's that depth of smoky flavor it adds.

Next time, I may just sear the tenders and serve on their own. It's your call. But I would add a handful of peas to the pasta water just before it's done.


  • 1/4-1/3 cup trimmed, smoked bacon (I used thick-sliced)
  • 1 tablespoon chopped jalapeno + 1 teaspoon, reserved, ribs and seeds removed
  • 2 large garlic cloves, sliced, + 1 reserved
  • 1 cup chunked chicken tenders
  • 1 4-oz. can mushrooms, drained, juice reserved
  • 1/2 cup cream
  • 1/4 cup dry, white wine
  • 4-5 ounces spaghetti
  • Parsley
  • Salt and pepper
  • Parmesan-Reggiano
  • Frozen peas (optional) about a handful


Trim, wash and pat dry chicken tenders. Cut into thirds or fourths.



Fry bacon just until it begins to crisp remembering it will also cook in the sauce. Remove from pan to drain. Add a bit olive oil to pan and add the chicken, searing just until it begins to brown. Add a bit of salt and pepper. Remove.

Be sure to taste your jalapeno before cooking with it.
Some are hot. Some are mild.
Remove the inside white rib and seeds--
that's where the most of the heat resides.


Add a bit of olive oil to pan and add the one tablespoon chopped jalapeno. Stir just until it softens, about one minute. Add the two sliced garlic cloves. After about a minute or so, add the wine to de-glaze the pan stirring up the brown bits. Add the mushroom juice. Stir. Add the cream. Bring just to a boil then lower heat. Add bacon and simmer until thick, a good 5-8 minutes. About halfway, taste for seasonings and, if necessary, add the reserved jalapeno and garlic. Add several grates of cheese and mix through.

Meanwhile bring a pot of salted water to a boil with about one-half to one piece of bacon. When boiling, add your pasta and cook. Just before done, add a handful of frozen peas, if using. Drain. Remove and discard bacon.




Once the sauce thickens, return the chicken to the pan over low heat. Add pasta to pan with sauce and chicken, stir through. Add about 1/4 cup grated cheese and stir through, allowing pasta to absorb the sauce. Add a bit of chopped parsley.

Plate and serve with addition cheese grated over the top. Yea it's all about going over the top  .  .  .