Oysters a la Rockefeller

First, a bit of history . . .

Way before there was a Julia Child, there was Francois and Antoinette Pope; she was French, he was Italian. And they both hailed from Chicago, home to my grandparents and mother.

The Popes were the "foodie" celebrities of their day and opened their first cooking school in the Windy City in 1930 where, quite literally, they taught generations of Chicagoans how to cook. Their first cookbook appeared in 1948. Their first cooking show, "Creative Cookery," appeared on the tube in 1951 and enjoyed an incredible 13-year run. "The French Chef" didn't appear until 1963! Think about that!

The Pope cookbooks had one underlying theme: class. But without being pretentious. Entire sections were devoted to "chafing dish" recipes; "party-style" molds, including a host of "chaud-froid" variations; tons of appetizers; cake decorating and vegetable "carving"; and entire menus for cocktail parties. Still, they included many recipes for simple dishes, such as hot dogs. Long before Jeff Smith's incredible cookbook "The Frugal Gourmet" appeared, their cookbook had already included chapters on both Italian and Cantonese cooking. 

Even today, their recipes hold up remarkably well. 

Francois and Antoinette Pope. Their recipes were as well-dressed
and groomed as they were.

When my grandmother retired from Sears Roebuck in downtown Chicago, (she was one of the first women to use what was then considered a computer), she attended cooking classes from the Pope school, including candy making (I have that cookbook, too). When her cooking skills waned, she gifted me her autographed copy of "The New Antoinette Pope School Cookbook." I've since learned that signed copies fetch a couple-hundred dollars. Alas, sadly or happily, mine is in poor condition from constant use. But my grandmother's inscription to me is priceless.

And, yes, I still make a pretty good loaf of bread . . .

"To my Grandson Gary. From Grandma
Dason. Love You & Love your bread."

My mother also had the Pope cookbook. When she died, I grabbed it. You would think two of the same cookbooks would be enough. Nope. Recently, I spotted an edition "in good shape" on the Internet and ordered it. If you have a favorite family cookbook, I suggest you do the same. Order a "working copy" to better preserve your family copy. Mine is held together with rubber bands and memories.

Now, on to those oysters!

My father hailed from Long Island, New York, so oysters were nothing new to him. But, for a  Midwestern family on the shores of Lake Michigan, their appearance at holidays was intrigue. My father aptly demonstrated how to "shuck" them, complete with East-Coast stories of his younger years and my by-gone, distant relatives. Oysters Rockefeller have now been a Thanksgiving and Christmas tradition at our house for several decades. This year, my mother has told me she ordered 60. We served them with ice-cold Spumante.

This year, I won't be home for Christmas. Instead, I will be at my sister's home and we have decided to introduce the tradition to her children. We are fond of saying that people who don't like oysters will change their minds when they try these . . . thanks... to... Francois and Antoinette Pope... a woman from Chicago... and a man from Long Island!

GREEN BUTTER for 16 - 18 OYSTERS:

• 1/2 cup finely-chopped curly parsley*
• 1/2 cup finely-chopped, fresh, uncooked spinach
• 1/2 cup finely-chopped green onion tops
• 1/2 cup melted butter
• 6 drops Tabasco sauce (or to taste)
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon pepper
• 1/8 teaspoon garlic salt
• 2 tablespoons Parmesan cheese
• 1/3 cup toasted bread crumbs

Put parsley, green onion tops, and spinach through a fine food chopper or chop fine with a heavy knife or cleaver. Put Tabasco sauce into melted butter. Taste. If you want it hotter, add more (we usually do). Mix bread crumbs, garlic  salt, salt, pepper and Parmesan cheese. Mix/sprinkle over vegetables and incorporate using two forks. Pour butter over top and mix well.

This dressing may be prepared several days in advance and kept in refrigerator until ready to be used; then let it stand in room temperature until soft enough to spread, or beat until of spreading consistency.

(NOTES: One 10-oz. box of frozen, chopped spinach, thawed and squeezed dry is about 1/2 cup. The most tedious part of this recipe is chopping the parsley. One large bunch is about 1/2 cup. Do not use the stems. I place in a mini-prep to do most of the work and then transfer to a cutting board to finish mincing. I cut the onions by hand; putting them in a mini-prep only makes them gelatinous. I use garlic powder instead of garlic salt. I just about double the amount of cheese. After adding the Tabasco to the melted butter, taste and add more to suit your preference. I make my own bread crumbs in the mini prep and then toast them in the oven.)

Scrub oysters well with a brush under cool-running water and keep cold until ready to shuck.

Shuck oysters and place on half shells in a baking sheet that is filled to top with rock salt (ice-cream salt). This stabilizes oysters to keep them from tipping. Bake in a 450 degree oven for about five minutes or until edges of oysters begin to curl. Remove from oven and quickly spread 1 tablespoon Green Butter Dressing over entire surface of each oyster. Return to oven and bake about 5 minutes longer.

For genuine Oysters Rockefeller, the oysters should not be allowed to brown; they should be served rare. However, they are more palatable to many people if placed under the broiler for a few minutes to become crisp.

*This is probably the most difficult part of the recipe. My grandmother grew her own curly parsley in borders around her house. We just stuck to it. Parsley is NOT easy to chop finely. It makes a mess, so be prepared. A food processor really does not work very well. Years ago at an antique market I picked up a Flintstone-version of a food processor made in France. It is called a "Mouli." If you ever see one, grab it. Nothing grinds herbs or parsley like this little wonder. Some countries are now reproducing them. But I never found one that comes close to the original.

This adjusts for right or left-handed people. 
It was so ahead of its time . . .

Notes: If oysters are particularly difficult to open, place them for several minutes in tepid water. They may be opened a few hours before cooking. Keep covered with tin foil in refrigerator (we keep them in the cold garage).

Stuffed Cabbage Rolls (Pigs in a Blanket)

Stuffed cabbage rolls are both healthy and economical.

When I grew up outside of Chicago, stuffed cabbage was called "pigs in a blanket." The "pig" was a reference to using all pork for the filling. The cabbage was its "blanket." It was a not uncommon food served at weddings and anniversaries in Catholic church basements where grandmothers spent most of the day making these labor-intensive-but greatly loved foods and whose recipes were unwritten.

I have tried many recipes through the years. Most have some kind of tomato sauce. Jewish stuffed cabbage is sweet-sour. Germans use sauerkraut. The following uses a nice balance between tomatoes and sauerkraut and the beef/pork filling in not heavy or compacted like most. I've prepared them without the sauerkraut but found them woefully lacking in taste.

To save time and to improve the flavor, prepare the meat mixture the night before and store, covered, in the refrigerator overnight. Bring to room temperature before using which may take several hours. 

Removing the cabbage leaves is not complicated. I do not subscribe to the practice of placing the head of cabbage in the freezer and then peeling them loose after it has thawed. It creates a "rubbery" leaf that cooks up tough. Simmering the head in boiling water does not take long.

It is important to allow the stuffed cabbage to sit for about 30-60 minutes before serving so they absorb the liquid. It is particularly good as leftovers. And always serve with a dollop of sour cream.

• 1, 3.5 - 4 lb. head of green cabbage
• 1 pound ground chuck
• 1/2 lb. ground pork
• 3/4 cup raw, long-grained rice
• 1 stick butter, melted
• 1 bunch curly parsley, chopped, leaves only
• 1 large yellow onion
• 1 egg
• 4 cloves garlic, finely minced
• 1-2 teaspoons regular table salt
• 1 teaspoon black pepper
• 2-3 dashes Cayenne pepper
• 1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
• 1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika
• 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
• 1, 14.5-oz. can sauerkraut, rinsed and squeezed dry (generic brand is fine)*
• 2 cups chicken stock
• 2 cups beef stock, canned is fine
• 1 cup water
• 1, 28-ounce can crushed tomatoes 
• You will need a very large pot or Dutch oven. I use an oval, enamel-lined cast iron Dutch
• oven that measures around 12" x 10" and is 5" deep
• Sour cream for serving

In a large bowl, combine the ground chuck, ground pork, egg, melted butter, garlic, salt, pepper, chopped parsley, Cayenne, smoked paprika and allspice. Mix well. Put a small spoonful on a plate and microwave for 15-30 seconds. Taste for seasonings and readjust if necessary. Cover bowl and refrigerate overnight if possible. Bring to room temperature before stuffing cabbage.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil, a pot large enough to hold the entire head of cabbage. Reduce to a simmer. Using a sharp, pointed knife, remove the stem-part of the cabbage by making cuts around and into it. Clean up the inside of the core a bit more so leaves will loosen easier when placed in hot water.

Put the entire head into the simmering water. After a few minutes, the first leaf will loosen easily from the head of cabbage. Using tongs, remove to a large bowl or pan. About every minute or so, another leaf will loosen. Continue removing leaves until they are too small to use as a cabbage roll and just the center of the cabbage remains. Remove and save. When cool, chop it up.

Choose 12-14 of the best cabbage leaves to use for the rolls. Save several leaves that will be placed on top of the finished cabbage rolls. Divide the meat into equal portions.

Using a sharp knife, "filet" the white rib of the cabbage by shaving down the thickness of the rib so it is the same thickness of the cabbage leaf itself.

Form a sausage-like roll and place just above the stem edge of the cabbage. Roll up once to cover. Now fold in each side toward the center and then roll, like a burrito.

Continue rolling cabbage, adjusting meat a bit to accommodate size of leaf. Set aside.

Peel onion and slice into thin rings. Chop the remaining center of the cabbage. Place half of chopped cabbage on bottom of pot. Spread with half the onion. Scatter some of the sauerkraut over that. Sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper if desired. Now spoon half the crushed tomatoes over cabbage-onion-sauerkraut layer. Place half of your stuffed cabbage rolls on top. Remember, they will expand as the cook because of the rice, so do not pack too tightly. If you have any leftover cabbage leaves, tuck some in-between.

Now add the remaining chopped cabbage, onion, sauerkraut and tomatoes. Add the last layer of cabbage rolls tucking in any leftover cabbage you may have. Add beef and chicken stock. Add about 1 cup water to empty tomato can and swirl to pick up the rest of the tomato pulp and then add to pot. Cover with several cabbage leaves. Cover tightly with lid and bake in a 350-degree oven for one hour.

After one hour, remove and check. Be sure rolls are covered with liquid. If necessary, add a bit more water. Return to oven and cook an additional one hour.

After two hours total cooking time, remove from oven. Lift lid just a crack and allow to rest for 40-60 minutes so cabbage rolls have time to absorb any more liquid. Remove to a serving bowl with remaining juices and cabbage/sauerkraut mixture. Serve with mashed potatoes and, if desired, corn or green beans. Don't forget that sour cream!

Kugelis (Potato Pudding)

Kugelis, or potato pudding, is a traditional Eastern-European dish. It is considered the national dish of Lithuania, a place of origin on my mother's side of the family who settled in Chicago. It is classic, inexpensive peasant food that sustained generations with the simplest ingredients one would easily find in agrarian, rural and poor communities: potatoes, onions, milk. One must imagine that, at one time, the addition of meat would have been a luxury saved for special occasions and holidays. And a sign of moving up in the world.

Recipes are varied. Some call for milk, flour, even Farina and sugar. Most call for bacon--and lots of it including the grease! Most require anywhere from 5-10 pounds of potatoes. After going through many recipes, the one I've come up with below is streamlined for today's smaller portions/families. The "clean" version uses cooked ham and it's the one I actually prefer. Of course, you have don't have to add any meat.

To make it easier to grate potatoes, cut in half or in quarters so they fit comfortably into your hand. Use Russets. Also try to use "older" rather than "fresher" potatoes; older potatoes have more starch and aren't as "wet." You want somewhere between a “grate” and a “shred.” Sorry, your Cuisinart really just won't work. Kugelis should always be served with generous portions of sour cream and/or applesauce.

Leftover Kugelis is wonderful for breakfast. Simply slice and quickly fry in a bit of butter. Great served with fried eggs! It's also a snap to nuke in the microwave to warm it up.

As a child, the appearance of a Kugelis was always a matter of celebration since most understood the time it took to prepare. I hope the same will be true for your own children.

I have prepared this without the addition of ham or bacon. I found the taste and texture "gluey." You do not need much flour. The starch in the potatoes is enough along with the eggs. 

Prepared correctly, this will become a family favorite. 

You want about five 'grates' per inch. Note the elongated grate.
The fine grate on a box grater is too small.

• 2 lbs. older potatoes (about 2 very large) peeled. A total of about 2 cups, grated.
• 1 small onion* see below
• 1-2 small eggs, lightly whisked. ( I often just use 2 egg yolks)
• 1/4 cup (about) evaporated milk* warmed up a bit. (Or heavy cream at room temp)
• 2-4 tablespoons flour or Farina** (I like to use self-rising flour)
• 1/2 teaspoon baking powder if not using self-rising flour
• 8-9 oz. bacon (about 8 strips) or 1/3 cup smoked pork jowl. OR for "cleaner" version: 1/2 - 3/4 cup sliced and cut-up cooked ham . If using bacon, add 1/2 cup chopped onion (see directions below)
• If using ham add the following:
• 1 teaspoon freshly minced rosemary OR 1/2 teaspoon each of dried, crushed rosemary and dried crushed thyme flakes. For the onion, grate most of it using the large holes of a box grater
• Salt, pepper to taste
• (Note: fresh herbs are not a part of traditional Kugelis)

Preheat oven to 450 F degrees. Generously butter or spray a one-quart baking dish. It's important for Kugelis to be about 1.5-2 inches in depth, so use an appropriate dish or pan.

If using bacon, cut up into dice. Saute lightly and add 1/2 cup chopped onion until bacon begins to brown and onion is soft. Set aside. If using ham, add the raw, grated onion to the grated potato mix.

Peel potatoes. Grate. Put grated pulp (and onion if using ham) in a sieve over a bowl and jiggle out most of the juice but do not discard it. You should have about 2 cups of grated potato.

After about 5-10 minutes, drain/discard potato juice being careful to keep the white potato starch that has settled to the bottom (If you are a bread maker, keep the potato water to make bread.) Return starch to the grated potato. Mix in. Add the eggs. Stir. Now add the the warmed condensed milk. Add flour or Farina and baking powder. If using bacon, add the bacon-onion mix, including the fat. Mix well. If using ham, add along with herbs, if using, and salt/pepper. Be careful with salt since bacon and ham can be quite salty already, but potatoes do take a lot of salt.

Note that the shredded potatoes, drained, are not swimming in liquid.
Notice the shredded nature of the batter. Do you like the bowl?
It's Mason and Cash.

Pour into greased casserole dish. Pat with the back of a wooden spoon to create a rough-textured surface (this creates a crispier top). Don't be worried if mixture appears too "wet." Bake in a 450 hot oven for 15 minutes. Reduce heat to 350 and bake for another 30-45 minutes until firm and top is golden. Cut into squares to serve.


*Add a little at a time. You may not need it all, especially is you're adding bacon/onion mixture. You want the batter thick, not soupy.
**Farina is preferred over flour. If using flour, try to use less, not more, or the kugelis will become pasty. 

Onions: Not enough onions? No problem. Make a custard of the egg and milk. Throw in a few teaspoons of dehydrated onions.

Note: For either the bacon or ham recipe, you may add 1-3 tablespoons of sour cream to the batter. Some people like their kugelis on the moist side; others on the dry side. I often use a ham steak or a thick slice of deli ham. I don't like it chopped or diced. Instead, I slice it thinly and randomly like one would a slice of ham and then rough-chop it.

Kugelis is a very forgiving recipe. With the addition of ham or bacon and a side salad, it's a meal on its own. 

Stove-Top Brownies

Rich, moist and chewy. Did I say loaded with chocolate? And clean-up is a snap because you use only one saucepan. Sometimes I'm bad. Really bad. I cut up gourmet chocolate bars, such as Dove, to use as the chocolate. Bad? Oh, yea! It's called 'Spank My Taste Buds!' Please, don't stop! Just .... one .... more ... with an ice-cold glass of milk!

When I owned an art studio/gallery, I made pans and pans of these brownies for my Christmas Open House. They were always a hit! So was my Refrigerator Fudge. Store both in a tight-fitted tin in the fridge.

• 2 tablespoons strong coffee, Kahlua, whiskey, brandy or other liqueur of your choice. Or just use water.
• 3/4 cup granulated white sugar
• 1/3 cup unsalted butter (not margarine)
• 1 (11.5 oz.) package semi-sweet chocolate chunks (not morsels) divided
• 2 large eggs
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 3/4 cup all purpose flour
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 cup chopped nuts
• Powdered sugar for decorating

On a piece of waxed paper (why dirty a bowl?), combine the flour and salt. Mix. Set aside until ready to use.

In a saucepan large enough to accomodate all the ingredients, bring the water, granulated sugar and butter just to a boil over medium heat stirring constantly with a wire whisk. Remove from heat and add one cup of the chocolate chunks and stir until melted and smooth. Let cool for at least 15 minutes.

Add eggs, one at a time, stirring just until blended. Stir in vanilla.

Stir in remaining chocolate chunks and nuts into cooled mixture. Stir flour mixture into chocolate mixture in saucepn. Spread into a lightly greased brownie pan or 8 x 8 in pan.

Bake at 325 degrees from 23-28 minutes. Do not overbake. The surface will puff a bit and be cracked. Cool pan on a wire rack. Do not attempt to cut these until they have cooled completely.

Cut into small squares and dust with powdered sugar.


Note: If not using nuts, add one extra tablespoon flour. Brownies are actually better a bit underbaked than overbaked. I now use a convection oven and set it at around 310-315 F degrees and bake them for 23 minutes. Once cool, I like to refrigerate them.